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FAR  COUNTRIES 

AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 


..  ■:;::■■■    : 


FAR  COUNTRIES 

AS  SEEN  BY 

A  BOY 

By  M.  BEECHER  LONGYEAR 

ILLUSTRATED  FROM   PHOTOGRAPHS 
AND  WITH  PEN  AND  INK  SKETCHES 


/ 


'•f 


PAUL   ELDER  AND   COMPANY 
PUBLISHERS  ■  SAN  FRANCISCO 


wv  ''■■•■.v;<>i),r;  ,      ;  n ..        '■> 


Copyright,  1916 

By  Paul  Elder  and  Company 

San  Francisco 


t\ 


To   all   Good   American    Boys — 
and    Girls   Too. 

Wouldn't  you  like  to  join  our 

trip  around  the  world  by  reading  this  book? 

It  will  prove  a  short  cut  to  the  history  oj  some  nations ,  and 

give  you  an  idea  oj  how  things  over  there 

look,  today,  to  a  boy. 


360648 


Contents 

Paos 

A  Visit  to  Hawaii 3 

Japan,    the    Land    of    "Little" 

Things 13 

Filipino  Youngsters 27 

The  Hill  City  of  Hong  Kong      .     .  36 

Peking,  Four  Cities  in  One     ...  52 

A  Long  Trip  to  the  Ming  Tombs  .      .  61 

Touring  in  Ceylon 74 

India,  Letter  One 91 

India,  Letter  Two 101 

India,  Letter  Three 115 

Egypt,  Letter  One 124 

Egypt,  Letter  Two 156 


M 


Illustrations 

FACING 
PAGE 

India — Jaipur.     Street  Scene  {Frontispiece) 

San  Francisco  to  Honolulu.     Fancy  Diving       ....  4 

Hawaii — Honolulu.    A  Cocoanut  Picnic 8 

Hawaii — Honolulu.     No  Fences  and  Much  Fruit  ...  8 

Japan — The  Human  Race 14 

Japan — Kioto.     Chionin  Temple;  Very  Japanesey.      .  18 

Japan — Kioto.     A  Small  Gate  Out  of  Town 22 

Japan — Kioto.     Coming  From  Church 22 

The  Philippines — Manila.     Awfully  Interested  in  Old 

Church  and  Wall 28 

The  Philippines — Olongapo.    Old  Spanish  Gate  and  Cari- 
boo Gait 28 

The  Philippines — Subig.    A  Summer  Resort  All  the  Year 

Around 32 

The  Philippines — Subig.    A  Fashionable  Promenade  .     .  32 

China — Hong  Kong.     Ready  to  Drink  It  All  In     .      .     .  36 
China — Canton.    Twelve  Miles  of  Roofs  with  Streets 

Under  Them 40 

China — Hong  Kong.    Tough  Roads  for  An  Auto    ...  40 

China — Shanghai.     Chinese  Junk.     (You  Bet!)       ...  44 

China — Canton.     Old  Gate  on  Wall 44 

China — New  Shanghai.     Pagoda,  2000  Years  Old   .     .     .  48 

China — Peking.     Going  to  Ancestral  Worship  ....  52 

China — Peking.    Ancestral  Church 56 

China — Peking.    The  Altar  of  the  Temple  of  Heaven     .  $6 

China — Strange  Beasts  Afield 62 

China — En  Route  for  Ming  Tombs 62 

China — Mingville.     "Let  Us  Pray"    .     ' 66 

China — Mingville.     Mausoleum  of  Ming  the  Great.  Jug 

Maker 66 

China — The  Real  Wall 70 

China — A  Cold  Day  When  We  Left  the  Wall  ....  70 

Ceylon — Colombo.     Galle  Face  Hotel 74 

Ceylon — Colombo.     A  Street  Chat 74 

Ceylon — Colombo.    Seen  from  a  Distance 78 

Ceylon — Colombo.    A  Noisy  Neighbor 78 

Ceylon — Anuradhapura.    A  Real  Live  Dagoba      ...  82 

[VII] 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

FACING 
PAGE 

Ceylon — Anuradhapura.   Puzzle:  Find  the  Relic  Inside  .  82 

Ceylon — Kandy.  Temple  of  the  Sacred  Tooth  ...  86 
Ceylon — Anuradhapura.    Mahinda  Brought  Buddhism  Up 

Here  to  Ceylon's  Ruler 86 

India — Madura.    Gopuram — Down  the  Street  ....  92 

India — Madura.    Temple  Tank  of  Golden  Lilies               .  92 

India — Madura.    Sacred  Tank  and  Temple 96 

India — Benares.    Early  Morning  Ride  to  See  the  Ghats  96 

India — Benares.     One  of  Fifty  Ghats 102 

India — Benares.    Priest  and  Worshipped  Gods       .           .  102 

India — Fatehpur-Sikri.     Akbar's  Tomb 106 

India — Fatehpur-Sikri.  One  House  in  This  Empty  Town  .  106 

India — Kutab.    Our  Sheik  Guide 110 

India — Agra.    The  Famous  Taj  Mahal 116 

India — Taj  Mahal's  Builder — Shah  Jahan 116 

India — Mt.  Abur.   Starting  for  a  Race  Up  the  Mountain 

Twenty  Miles 120 

Egypt — Sak  Kara.    Going  Over  the  Desert  to  See  the 

Sights 124 

Egypt — Denderah.    Ibrahim  Giving  a  Call  to  Show  Us 

Cleopatra  On  the  Wall 128 

Egypt — Luxor.    Karnak  By  Moonlight;  Very  Romantic  .  132 

Egypt — Esneh.  Ibrahim  Showing  Off  By  a  Curfew  Tower  136 

Egypt — Kom  Ombo.    The  Crocodile  God 140 

Egypt — Assouan.  Trying  a  Desert  Aeroplane  ....  144 
Egypt — Luxor.    Bible  Lesson.    The  Children  of  Israel 

Made  These  Granaries  in  the  Time  of  Moses      .     .     .  148 

Egypt — Luxor.    It  Was  the  King's  Pavilion  Long  Ago    .  152 

Egypt — Abydos.  Copt  School.  Teaching  from  the  Bible  .  156 
Egypt — Luxor.   Queen  Hatasu  Built  This  Temple.    It  Is 

Great 160 

Egypt — Ghizeh.  Mysterious  But  Very  Plain  ....  164 
Egypt — Statues  of  Memnon.    This  Is  the  Sight  of  Old 

Thebes 164 

Egypt — Our  Steamer  Prince  Abbus — On  to  Earis.    Good- 

Bye 168 


I  VIII  J 


FAR  COUNTRIES 
AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 


Chapter  I. 
A  VISIT  TO  HAWAII. 

AT  SEA,  STEAMSHIP  "MONGOLIA", 
SEPTEMBER   20TH 

Dear  Bradford: 

You  remember  that  you  shouted  to  me 
as  we  left  the  dock  at  San  Francisco: 
1 'Write  me  some  real  live  geography,  up 
to  date  and  first  hand."     Well,  here  goes. 

[31 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

Our  first  stop  was  at  Honolulu,  and  I 
know  a  lot  more  than  I  did  yesterday 
about  the  Sandwich  Islands — as  they  used 
to  be  called.  They  were  discovered  by 
Captain  Cook  years  ago,  but  now  are 
called  Hawaii. 

I  have  seen  ladies  at  home  that  I 
thought  were  much  decorated  with  huge 
bouquets  of  flowers,  but  in  Honolulu  they 
make  chains  of  them  of  all  brilliant  colors, 
and  both  men  and  women  wear  them  as 
wreaths,  or  hung  about  their  necks;  at 
least  the  natives  did  who  met  our  steamer, 
calling  out,  "Aloha!  Aloha!"  They 
offered  me  so  many  that  I  was  surprised 
to  think  that  they  knew  I  was  coming  and 
I  had  four  of  all  different  colors  about  my 
neck,  when  father  interfered  and  paid 
up,  twenty-five  cents  apiece.  He  re- 
marked then,  that  perhaps  it  might  be 
just  as  well  if  I  kept  a  little  more  in  the 
background  and  didn't  try  to  play  the 
part  of  advance  courier. 

For  once  in  my  life  I  was  interested  in 
history  when  I  heard  the  folks  talking 
about  the  islands.  It  seems  that  many 
years  ago  one  big  man  of  the  native  tribes, 
Kamehameha  the  Great,  thought  he 
[4] 


San  Francisco  to  Honolulu 
Fancy  Diving 


A  VISIT  TO  HAWAII 

would  like  to  be  ruler  of  all  the  islands 
around  there,  so  he  gathered  a  big  army 
and  fought  those  who  did  not  want  him 
to  rule  over  them.  At  the  first  battle 
Kamehameha's  men  drove  their  enemies 
to  the  edge  of  a  steep  precipice,  and  three 
thousand  of  them  were  forced  over  this 
cliff  on  to  the  rocks  a  thousand  feet  below. 
That  is  easy  to  remember,  but  not  very 
pleasant.  After  that,  all  the  islands, 
about  seven  or  eight,  were  under  one  rule. 
Then  came  the  Presbyterian  missionaries, 
and  they  built  a  church  and  college.  All 
this  happened  over  sixty  years  ago.  I 
heard  them  say  that  the  rich  people  of 
California  used  to  send  their  children  here 
to  be  educated,  and  I  rather  think  those 
children  loved  it.  Why,  they  could  play 
baseball  all  the  year  round,  and  the  beach 
is  the  finest  I  have  ever  seen.  The  boys 
must  have  a  jolly  time  surf  riding.  All 
you  need  to  do  is  to  get  a  good-sized  iron- 
ing board  and  run  into  the  breakers  with 
it,  and  when  a  big  wave  comes  rolling  in, 
lie  down  flat  on  the  board,  and  then  I 
don't  know  exactly  what  happens,  but  it 
seems  like  a  volcano  of  soap  suds  and  you 
are  somewhere  in  it,  and  after  you  have 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

had  a  few  such  experiences  you  ride  back 
to  the  shore  on  the  waves  standing  up  on 
the  board. 

Then  those  children  had  such  good 
things,  and  plenty  of  them,  to  eat — ba- 
nanas growing  beside  the  road  and  no 
fence  between,  delicious  fresh  pineapples, 
figs  and  dates.  The  guavas  that  we  buy 
as  jelly,  at  home,  grow  wild  on  the  moun- 
tains and  in  the  valleys.  I  can  imagine 
that  those  boys  learned  from  the  natives 
how  to  shinny  up  the  great  bare  telegraph 
poles  of  the  cocoanut  palms,  but  I  was 
much  disappointed  in  the  taste  of  the 
young  cocoanut.  We  were  all  invited  to 
a  home  beside  Waikiki  beach,  and  a  serv- 
ant knocked  down  four  cocoanuts  from 
the  trees  in  front  of  the  house.  We  each 
had  a  whole  cocoanut,  which  was  opened 
with  a  pick,  and  we  were  expected  to  like 
the  milk  to  drink,  but  we  didn't,  although 
we  tried  to  be  polite  and  took  a  sip  or  two 
of  the  mawkish  stuff  and  nibbled  at  the 
tough,  milky,  soft-looking  white  brick. 
Mother's  excuse  was  that  she  had  already 
eaten  "so  much  of  the  delicious  alligator 
pear  and  fresh  cocoanut  cake"  at  luncheon 
that  she  really  had  no  appetite,  while 
[8J 


Hawaii 

Honolulu.    A  Cocoanut  Picnic 

Honolulu.    No  Fences  and  Much  Fruit 


A  VISIT  TO  HAWAII 

father  looked  serious,  and  said  he  thought 
he  could  cultivate  a  taste  for  it  in  time. 
I  couldn't  be  persuaded  to  taste  a  tama- 
rind when  I  saw  mother's  face  just  after 
she  had  taken  a  good  mouthful.  Father 
said  'it  had  a  real,  lasting  sour." 

A  lady  of  rather  dark  complexion  passed 
by  in  an  automobile,  and  we  had  seen 
the  former  Queen  Lili.  While  the  folks 
were  talking  about  her,  I  thought  I  heard 
them  say  that  when  the  women  of  the 
United  States  could  vbte  they  are  going 
to  give  her  over  $8000  a  year  to  pay  up 
for  taking  the  island  away  from  her. 
Some  Americans  thought  that  unless  the 
U.  S.  A.  took  this  step  the  queen  might 
execute  saucy  Americans  who  had  sugar 
and  pineapple  business  there;  I  think 
the  United  States  did  a  good  thing  and 
made  a  good  bargain,  although  it  was 
rather  one-sided. 

Well,  I  thought  I  knew  a  fish  when  I 
saw  one,  but  in  a  house  on  the  beach  they 
have  something  to  make  you  guess,  "Bird, 
fish  or  fowl."  They  are  all  colors  and 
shapes,  and  some  are  almost  invisible. 
They  look  like  birds  and  pigs  and  queer 
creepy  things.  Mother  raved  over  the 
In! 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

colors  and  "texture,"  but  I'd  like  to  know 
how  they'd  taste  fried! 

Only  one  more  thing  to  add  to  this 
long  geography  lesson — they  slice  up 
rainbows  here  and  hang  a  piece  in  each 
valley,  sometimes  one  over  another.  Big 
mountains  are  all  around,  and  Uncle  Sam 
has  made  a  great  fortification  in  the  mid- 
dle of  one  of  them. 

I'll  write  you  again  from  Japan.  Who 
beat  in  the  last  school  baseball  game? 

Your  loving  cousin, 

BEECH. 


[12] 


s  •> 


J.»« 


/  ten  '-•'     >  ^ 


j.Vr^ 


Chapter  II. 
JAPAN,   THE   LAND   OF    "  LITTLE "   THINGS 

AT  SEA, 
OCTOBER  1 7TH 

Dear  cousin  Bradford: 

li/VERYBODY  is  writing  as  fast  as  they 
can  today  about  our  four  days'  trip  in 
Japan  before  they  forget  their  'Vivid  im- 
pressions of  that  wonderful  little  isle  and 

[13] 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

its  wonderful  little  people."  We  knew 
by  the  quantity  of  fans,  teacups,  lamp 
shades  and  "old  prints"  we  had  seen  in 
our  stores  at  home,  what  to  expect. 
Mother  gave  your  mother  a  choice  old 
print  last  Christmas  of  a  fierce  looking 
warrior  sitting  on  the  ground  with  his 
legs  stuck  out,  showing  his  teeth,  and 
flourishing  a  stick  around  his  head. 
Those  prints  are  very  artistic,  I  have 
heard  tell,  and  can  teach  us  a  lot  about 
"balance  and  rhythm,"  if  one  cares  for 
that  sort  of  thing.  I  hoped  I'd  see  an 
old  duffer  like  it,  but  I  didn't. 

We  landed  at  Yokohama,  and  a  Japan- 
ese courier  dressed  in  a  gray  Mother  Hub- 
bard and  a  derby  hat  came  on  board  and 
looked  us  up.  Father  had  cabled  him  to 
meet  us.  He  was  so  quiet  and  watchful 
that  he  had  our  twenty-seven  pieces  of 
"luggage,"  as  the  English  say,  in  the 
tender  before  I  had  time  to  get  a  very 
vivid  impression  of  the  whole  scene;  but 
when  the  boat  reached  the  pier  you  should 
have  seen  the  bare-legged,  short- trousered 
Japs  with  their  funny  little  baby  car- 
riages, shouting  and  yelling  for  passen- 
gers. The  guide  called  up  five  of  the 
[Hi 


Japan 
The  Human  Race 


ft  *     A      -, 

f>        .>         » 


JAPAN,  THE  LAND  OF  "LITTLE"  THINGS 

"baby  carriages" — 'rickshaws— and  we 
each  got  into  one,  and  away  they  scam- 
pered between  the  thills  without  any  har- 
ness on.  I  wondered  how  long  father 
could  go  on  without  tipping  over.  I  ex- 
pected to  see  the  little  "rickey  man,"  as 
they  call  these  men  ponies,  go  kiting  over 
his  head,  but  to  my  great  disappointment 
nothing  happened  of  that  sort.  Mother 
told  me  afterwards  that  it  was  due  to  the 
laws  of  "  balance"  which  they  learned 
from  their  old  prints.  We  started  right 
out — without  even  going  to  a  hotel  to 
wash  up — to  learn  about  their  religion. 
Let  me  give  you  a  pointer — don't  try  to 
understand  everything  about  it,  if  you 
ever  come  here,  for  you  won't  have  time 
to  think  of  anything  else.  Just  remem- 
ber what  I  write  you  about  it,  and  then 
you  will  not  need  to  bother  your  head 
about  it.  We  were  hustled  right  on  to  a 
train,  and  in  about  an  hour  we  landed  at 
Kamakura,  and  started  off  to  see  the 
sights,  and  judging  from  the  specimens 
we  saw,  religion  is  more  to  them  than  a 
baseball  game.  Now  if  they  would  only 
employ  the  rickey  men  to  amuse  the 
tourists  by  a  good  game  of  ball,  or  a  race 

[17] 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

with  tourists  in  the  rickeys,  it  would  be 
worth  going  to  Japan  to  see  the  fun. 

The  first  religion  we  were  introduced 
to  was  the  Shinto.  It  was  the  first  new 
one  I  had  ever  met,  so  I  think  I  gave  it  too 
much  attention.  Now  when  I  see  a  red- 
decorated,  parallel  bar-like  thing  in  front 
of  flights  and  flights  of  steps,  with  cocked 
hat  roofs  at  the  top,  I  know  that  is  a 
Shinto  church  or  temple.  Oh,  yes,  one 
other  thing,  there  must  be  two  other 
things — funny  dogs  or  fierce  warriors 
made  of  bronze,  somewhere  around,  and 
one  must  have  its  mouth  open  and  one 
have  its  mouth  shut,  meaning,  "don't 
jabber  all  the  time  and  keep  your  mouth 
shut  when  you're  thinking.' ■ 

Mother  asked  the  guide  many  ques- 
tions, and  I  gathered  that  the  Shintos 
were  born  fighters,  that  they  just  loved 
their  old  warriors  who  fought  for  their 
country;  that  they  thought  if  they  did 
right,  they  needn't  pray  to  anybody,  so 
they  had  no  idols,  but  a  looking  glass. 
They  have  a  great  lay-out  of  colored 
buildings  and  a  sacred  dancing  floor. 

Then  we  were  shown  another  religion. 
I  don't  see  why  they  make  so  much  of 
[18] 


.    ..' 


;  : 


JAPAN.  THE  LAND  OF  "LITTLE"  THINGS 

their  old-time  things,  for  they  themselves 
don't  seem  to  go  to  the  temples  as  much 
as  the  tourists  do.  This  was  called  the 
Buddhist  religion.  The  temple  was  enor- 
mous, and  just  at  the  entrance  was  a  huge 
idol.  I  couldn't  tell  whether  it  was 
meant  for  a  man  or  a  woman.  It  was 
"serenity  itself,' '  mother  said,  "smiling 
with  almond  eyes  half  closed  on  this  busy 
world."  I  believe  I  would  rather  be  a 
Buddhist  than  a  Shinto.  All  they  have 
to  do  to  get  into  heaven  is  to  love  their 
grandparents  and  repeat  the  name  of 
Buddha  10,000,000  times  and  sit  down 
cross-legged  while  they  are  doing  it.  I 
thought  this  because  I  was  tired  walking 
up  so  many  steps;  now  that  I  am  rested 
I  think  I'd  rather  try  the  Shinto  and  keep 
my  mouth  open  half  the  time  and  shut  the 
other  half,  and  have  a  little  fun  fighting. 
After  going  through  miles  of  streets  with 
little  houses  on  each  side  and  little  panes 
of  rice  paper  for  their  windows — every- 
thing in  Japan  seems  "little" — we  stopped 
suddenly  with  a  great  flourish;  you 
wouldn't  believe  it,  perhaps,  but  there 
away  up  in  the  sky  with  a  big  gold  head 
on  him,  was  Buddha  itself.     It  scared 

[21] 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

me  stiff.  It  looked  like  the  dome  of  the 
state  house  in  Boston,  with  nose,  eyes 
and  mouth,  and  it  wasn't  a  little  body, 
either.  I  got  up  close  to  mother  and 
whispered,  "Is  it  alive?' '  She  under- 
stood me  and  didn't  laugh.  "No,  dear," 
she  said,  "it  is  a  type  of  serenity,  and  al- 
though we  call  it  an  idol  we  can  learn 
something  from  the  thought  of  its  majesty 
and  immutable  calm."  I  was  so  sleepy 
going  home  that  I  nearly  fell  out  of  my 
rickey,  trying  to  think  it  all  out. 

The  next  day  we  went  by  train  to 
Kioto.  We  passed  hundreds  of  thatched 
mud  houses.  Many  iris  plants  grow  on 
the  ridge  poles  of  these  houses  which 
must  liven  them  up  in  the  spring.  I 
really  got  tired  seeing  such  an  army  of 
workers.  They  all  seem  to  dress  alike, 
but  the  women  generally  wear  earrings. 
I  never  saw  so  many  babies  in  my  life, 
and  they  were  like  those  queer  floppy 
little  Japanese  dolls  sister  used  to  have, 
and  they  are  hung  on  the  backs  of  all  the 
living  ancestors — the  little  brothers  and 
sisters,  the  grandfather  and  mother.  The 
mothers,  too,  carry  them  when  they  are 
at  work  in  the  fields. 

[22] 


Japan 

Kioto.    A  Small  Gate  Out  of  Town 
Kioto.     Coming  from  Church 


V 


JAPAN.  THE  LAND  OF  "LITTLE"  THINGS 

We  saw  the  great  white-covered  moun- 
tain, Fujiyama,  in  the  sky,  as  the  clouds 
parted  and  then  I  went  to  sleep.  We  got 
to  Kioto  in  the  evening  and  climbed  a 
steep  hill  to  reach  our  hotel.  We  had  to 
have  a  pusher  behind  our  rickeys.  All 
the  next  day  we  were  in  the  shops;  some 
day  I  may  like  to  see  and  buy  old  Sat- 
suma,  but  now  it  does  seem  a  bore.  We 
went  on  to  Kobe  the  next  day  and  got 
our  boat.  Japan  is,  after  all,  worth 
going  to  see.  You  see  rice  growing,  little 
oranges  on  trees,  mulberries  to  feed  the 
silk  worms,  and  you  see  little  people  with 
little  wooden  stilts  on  their  feet  on 
muddy  days;  you  hear  nothing  but  the 
quick  patter,  patter,  of  their  little  wooden 
shoes,  in  the  cities.  They  never  jabber 
or  sing,  and  the  babies  have  no  yell  in 
them.  They  are  all  dark,  with  black 
eyes  and  hair.  They  seem  like  human 
ants.  I  never  heard  a  laugh  once  in 
Japan,  excepting  at  a  theatre  where  they 
sat  on  the  floor  in  little  square  places  with 
their  little  tea  tables  by  them.  The  play 
showed  how  an  American  woman  would 
quiet  her  baby — by  shaking  it  up,  and 
tossing  it  up,  and  singing  at  the  top  of 

hsl 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

her  voice  at  the  same  time.  Then  the 
audience  laughed  quietly.  I  see  that 
they  think  we  are  queer,  too.  I  never 
thought  of  that  before.  When  you  have 
seen  Japan,  you  will  be  more  thankful 
than  ever  that  you  live  in  America,  and 
do  not  have  to  go  around  the  streets  with 
the  babies  of  the  family  strapped  on  your 
back. 

Look  up  on  the  map  and  see  where  we 
went  through  the  inland  sea  to  Nagasaki. 
IVe  got  a  red  turtle  drum  like  the  one  the 
priests  beat  in  the  temple  to  make 
Buddha  listen  to  them.  Mother  bought 
it  for  me  in  an  antique  shop  because  I 
didn't  "fuss"  at  going  shopping. 

Off  now  for  the  Philippines. 

Your  loving  cousin, 

BEECH. 


[26] 


Chapter  III. 
FILIPINO  YOUNGSTERS. 

CHINA  SEA, 
OCTOBER  26TH 

My  dear  Bradford: 

I  can  only  write  you  a  short  letter  this 
time,  as  I  haven't  much  to  say  or  much 
time  to  say  it  in.  The  Philippines,  as 
you    know,    belong    to    America.    The 

U7l 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

Spanish  used  to  own  them,  but  some  few 
years  ago  when  we  went  to  war  with 
Spain  to  help  Cuba  get  her  liberty,  Ad- 
miral Dewey  chanced  upon  the  Philip- 
pines; he  heard  some  firing  and  thinking 
that  maybe  some  Cubans  were  there  and 
getting  hurt  he  joined  in  the  fray.  When 
the  Spanish  warships  saw  the  stars  and 
stripes,  they  scattered  their  ships  and 
sank  them  themselves  and  went  down 
with  them,  and  Admiral  Dewey  was 
forced  to  hand  the  U.  S.  A.  a  nice  little 
group  of  islands.  The  U.  S.  A.  didn't 
want  them,  and  Dewey  didn't  want  them, 
so  then  they  sent  Taf t  over  and  he  peace- 
fully took  possession.  The  Filipinos 
didn't  like  it,  and  Spain  didn't  like  it. 
But  what  else  could  he  do? 

This  is  history.  We  Americans  ought 
to  be  proud  of  our  country  when  we  see 
how  superior  we  are  to  the  Filipinos.  We 
have  just  put  up  a  most  magnificent 
hotel  in  Manila,  built  like  an  old  Spanish 
palace.  There  are  tile  bathrooms.  The 
"help"  in  this  big  hotel  are  all  little  dark- 
skinned  Filipinos,  with  their  white  shirts 
worn  outside  their  white  trousers.  They 
are  all  barefooted.     The  stately  Ameri- 

[28] 


The  Philippines 

Manila.     Awfully  Interested  in  Old  Church  and  Wall 

Olongapo.    Old  Spanish  Gate  and  Cariboo  Gait 


*        j      t  •  •     * ~  *•  S>  "1  »         i  , 


FILIPINO  YOUNGSTERS 


can  officers  act  like  Spanish  grandees. 
They  never,  never  smile  or  say  "Thank 
you"  or  tip  the  "stupids,"  as  they  call 
them.  They  expect  them  to  understand 
English  by  instinct  and  frown  at  them 
until  the  poor  little  natives  lose  what  wits 
they  have.  But  really  and  truly,  the 
Americans  are  treating  the  natives  kindly, 
teaching  them  to  hustle  and  run  the 
lawn  mower  and  work  in  the  hot  sun, 
and  to  spend  their  money  on  moving 
picture  shows.  They  are  showing  them 
a  lot  of  new  tricks;  one  store  we  were  in 
has  little  holes  in  the  floor,  and  instead 
of  heat  coming  up,  a  cold  blast  nearly 
lifts  you  off  your  feet.  Mother  looked 
as  though  she  had  on  a  hoop  skirt  when 
she  got  over  one.  Manila  is  a  flat  city, 
walls  and  all  that  sort  of  thing,  but  the 
"Americans  will  make  it  more  convenient, 
if  less  artistic  soon,"  father  said.  The 
funniest  sight  is  to  see  the  water  buffalo 
or  caribou  harnessed  to  a  cart  and 
driven  by  a  half-naked  Filipino.  These 
animals  have  a  skin  that  dries  and  cracks 
if  it  doesn't  wallow  in  mud  every  day. 
It  has  great  horns  and  can't  bear  the 
smell  of  an  American.     Not  caring  to 

[31] 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

be  hooked,  I  always  kept  to  the  leeward 
when  I  saw  one  coming. 

We  went  to  a  Filipino  school  taught 
by  an  American.  He  didn't  need  to 
teach  them  politeness  as  it  is  natural  to 
them.  The  youngsters  seemed  a  bright 
lot,  anxious  and  quick  to  learn,  but  the 
teacher  didn't  make  a  remarkable  show- 
ing on  that  score.  They  sang  a  song 
called  "Jolly  Boys  Are  We,"  and  by  the 
way  they  looked  they  must  have  thought 
it  a  kind  of  dirge.  They  had  a  lot  of 
baskets,  lace  and  embroidery  they  had 
made,  and  we  bought  some  to  take  home 
as  there  is  no  duty  on  that  work.  The 
"boys"  as  they  are  called,  take  the  best 
care  of  the  houses.  The  beds  are  covered 
with  mosquito  netting  to  keep  out  the 
flies.  They  furnish  good  food,  buy  it  and 
cook  it;  they  write  a  beautiful  letter  in 
English,  and  keep  all  the  accounts — as 
well  as  a  game  rooster  for  Sunday  service. 
They  are  clean,  even  in  their  native  cities. 
Some  one  said  that  the  "United  States 
officers  were  afraid  to  smile  at  them  for 
fear  they  would  not  respect  them."  I 
quietly  grinned  at  the  "boys"  sometimes 
and  they  did  the  same. 
[32] 


The  Philippines 

Subig.     A  Summer  Resort  All  the  Year  Around 

Subig.     A  Fashionable  Promenade 


-•   • 


FILIPINO  YOUNGSTERS 

The  Bilibid  prison  at  Manila  is  the  most 
interesting  place  I  ever  saw.  The  Ameri- 
cans have  made  it  a  show  place.  Let 
me  see  if  I  can  explain  it  to  you.  Think 
of  a  wheel,  a  guard  house  high  up  on  the 
hub,  along  the  spokes  stone  buildings  for 
prisons,  then  in  the  space  between  the 
buildings  men  marching  in  perfect  order 
to  the  music  of  a  prison  band.  At  the 
first  strain  of  "The  Star  Spangled  Ban- 
ner" every  cap  came  off,  and  I  confess 
to  something  in  my  throat  as  I  listened  to 
that  splendid  music  and  thought  of  the 
words,  "And  this  be  our  motto,  in  God 
be  our  trust,"  and  I  felt  sure  that  God 
was  leading  all  His  children  to  love  each 
other.  They  make  lovely  furniture  and 
silver  things  at  the  prison. 

Yours  as  ever, 

BEECH. 


[35] 


:  -^  R 


Chapter  IV. 
THE  HILL  CITY  OF  HONG  KONG. 

AT   SEA, 
NOVEMBER      8TH 

Dear  cousin  Bradford: 

JVLy  letters  are  always  dated  at  sea 
because  on  the  land  we  are  too  busy 
sightseeing  to  do  anything  else.  Well, 
now  travel  is  getting  to  be  some  fun  for  a 
[36] 


China 
Honq  Kong.     Ready  To  Drink  It  All  In 


THE  HILL  CITY  OF  HONG  KONG 

boy.  Of  course  it  is  improving  to  one's 
mind,  and  it  is  a  fine  way  to  learn  geog- 
raphy and  history;  but  it  is  a  little  tire- 
some to  have  to  keep  so  tidy  and  clean 
all  the  time.  We  aren't  allowed  to  com- 
plain about  the  weather  or  to  grumble 
at  the  kind  of  food  we  have,  or  to  stuff 
ourselves  when  we  like  anything  specially 
well,  or  even  to  say,  "I'm  hot,"  or  "I'm 
cold."  We  are  all  glad  when  we  leave 
the  ship  and  get  our  thoughts  fastened 
on  something  else  besides  ourselves. 

My,  but  Hong  Kong  is  a  beauty!  We 
came  into  the  harbor  at  night,  and  it 
looked  as  if  a  tall  tree  with  candles  all 
burning  rose  out  of  the  water  before  us 
specially  for  the  occasion.  The  harbor 
was  filled  with  a  lot  of  queer  vessels  all 
lighted  up,  and  the  sky  was  glittering 
with  stars.  As  it  was  only  a  few  steps 
we  walked  to  our  hotel.  The  next  morn- 
ing I  was  up  early  and  out  on  our  bal- 
cony, and  found  that  Hong  Kong  is  built 
on  a  great  hill.  Only  tiers  and  tiers  of 
roofs,  one  on  top  of  another,  were  to  be 
seen.  I  found  out  at  breakfast  that 
Hong  Kong  belongs  to  England,  and  I 
knew  that  they  owned  the  hotel,  for  we 

[39) 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

had  no  fruit  for  breakfast,  but  we.  did 
have  porridge,  finnan  haddie,  chicken 
livers,  cold  mutton  and  rhubarb. 

We  attended  service  at  a  nice  little 
Christian  church  that  is  built  up  on  the 
rock;  and  how  do  you  suppose  we  got 
there?  Not  exactly  carried  in  arms  by  a 
Chinese  nurse,  but  almost  the  next  thing 
to  it,  for  we  were  each  put  into  a  chair 
and  carried  on  the  shoulders  of  two  very 
lightly  clothed  Chinese  men.  They 
walked  straight  up  the  hill  without  stop- 
ping once.  It  seemed  so  good  to  hear 
the  old  hymns  once  more  in  a  church  and 
to  think  that  away  off  here,  Truth,  like 
a  star,  was  glowing  in  the  darkness.  In 
the  afternoon  we  went  to  the  top  of  the 
hill  and  saw  a  great  panorama  of  the  city 
and  harbor,  with  its  long  enclosing  arm 
of  hills.  Hong  Kong  means  "good  har- 
bor''  or  "fair  haven.' ' 

You  have  heard  of  Canton  ginger  and 
Canton  flannel  and  Canton  china,  but 
when  we  went  to  Canton  we  found  the 
people  making  many  more  things.  We 
had  a  guide  and  rode  in  a  long  procession 
of  chairs,  with  our  courier  ahead,  through 
the  narrowest  streets  imaginable.  The 
[40] 


Canton. 


China 
Twelve  Miles  of  Roofs  With  Streets  Under  Them 
Hong  Kong.    Tough  Roads  for  an  Auto 


THE  HILL  CITY  OF  HONG  KONG 

Chinaman  loves  a  noise,  and  every  chair- 
man loudly  proclaimed  that  the  great 
mogul  from  America  had  arrived  with  his 
family.  There  were  little  shops  with  big 
men  stripped  to  the  waist,  working  at  all 
trades  with  their  pigs  and  chickens 
around  them.  Swarms  of  children,  led 
by  women  who  wear  trousers  and  a  short 
coat  and  green  earrings,  almost  blocked 
our  way.  As  far  down  the  street  as  you 
could  see  were  hung  signs  in  red  and  gold. 
Their  religion  is  founded  on  ancestor 
worship  and  the  roofs  of  their  temples  are 
covered  with  great  dragons  and  filled 
with  images  of  their  ancestors,  called 
gods.  One  had  as  many  as  500  images 
in  it.  They  never  really  let  their  ances- 
tors go ;  they  make  paper  money  and  food 
and  clothes  and  think  they  send  these 
things  to  them  by  burning  them  in  their 
temples.  The  Chinese  dislike  to  have 
their  heads  cut  off,  for  they  do  not  want 
to  disgrace  their  ancestors  by  meeting 
them  with  their  heads  in  their  hands. 
They  take  specially  good  care  of  the  old 
folks.  They  are  Buddhists  like  the  Jap- 
anese, but  no  Shintoism  for  them;  they 
don't  want  to  fight  anything,  not  even 

[43]   ' 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

dirt.  They  are  so  full  of  business  in 
Canton  that  they  don't  seem  to  have 
time  to  think  of  anything  else.  We  saw 
them  making  silk,  red  and  black  lacquer 
boxes,  carving  ivory  and  making  hat  pins 
out  of  birds'  feathers.  All  their  shops 
are  little  and  dark.  When  I  began  to 
get  hungry,  I  wondered  where  in  that 
wilderness  of  smelly  shops  and  crowds 
of  Chinos  we  could  ever  find  anything  to 
eat,  but,  after  a  little,  our  guide  stopped 
at  an  ivory  shop — the  only  one  in  town 
that  had  a  door — and  we  had  "tiffin," 
English  for  lunch.  In  the  Philippines 
they  call  it  "chow."  I  do  not  believe 
that  half  the  children  in  Canton  ever  saw 
green  grass  or  a  tree,  but  they  are  up  to 
mischief  like  other  boys,  for  I  got  a  stone 
flung  at  me  and  a  slap  from  a  gibbering 
little  rascal  who  demanded  "cunshaw" 
which  means  present,  but  our  coolies 
rushed  along  too  fast  for  me  even  to  pull 
his  pigtail. 

The  next  morning  we  went  back  to 
Hong  Kong  and  took  the  boat  to  Shang- 
hai. It  is  a  three  days'  trip.  I  don't 
see  how  a  fellow  can  get  much  idea  of  the 
Chinese  when  the  English  build  the 
(44l 


THE  HILL  CITY  OF  HONG  KONG 

hotels  and  boulevards  and  banks,  run 
automobiles  and  have  race  courses  all 
around  their  cities.  We  left  Shanghai 
the  same  night  for  Nanking  and  on  our 
train,  in  our  compartment,  were  two 
learned  Chinese,  known  as  such  by  their 
long-pointed  finger  nails.  They  wore 
glasses.  We  were  soon  given  another 
compartment  by  ourselves. 

It  was  rather  scary  walking  in  the  dark 
over  the  worn  pavements  of  Nanking  to 
a  little  Chinese  hotel  kept  by  an  English 
woman,  but  we  had  a  good  supper  and 
made  a  bluff  at  sleeping  with  forty  kinds 
of  noises  going  on  in  the  streets  all  night. 
In  the  morning  mother  and  father  took 
'rickshaws  to  the  boat,  but  the  rest  of  us 
walked  through  much  filth  and  dirt  to 
the  little  river  steamer  which  was  to  take 
us  up  the  Yangtse  Kiang.  We  were  glad 
enough  to  get  into  a  quiet,  clean  place 
with  plenty  of  good  food  and  fruit  to  eat. 
The  color  of  the  river  is  a  tinge  between 
pea  puree  and  strained  pumpkin.  I  was 
glad  when  we  got  to  Hankow.  The 
Chinese  always  encourage  each  other 
when  they  work  by  shouting  and  grunt- 
ing, and  when  they  are  loading  or  un- 
[47] 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

loading  a  steamer  they  make  a  racket 
for  sure.  We  had  to  grin  and  bear  the 
weather,  for  it  poured  for  two  days  and 
was  awfully  cold;  but  the  captain  won 
our  hearts  because  he  had  an  American 
coal  stove  set  up  in  the  center  cabin  for 
our  comfort.  Sometimes  we  would  all 
get  desperate  for  fresh  air  and  would 
rush  out  in  the  rain  and  gladly  get  back 
again  to  the  coal  stove  and  dry  clothes, 
listening  to  the  most  terrible  tales  of  the 
fighting  which  went  on  at  Hankow  last 
year. 

It  was  a  happy  moment  when  our  train, 
which  goes  only  once  a  week,  pulled  out 
from  Hankow  to  take  us  to  Peking.  It 
was  cold,  though,  and  our  compartments 
were  like  little  narrow  cells  until  the 
steam  came  on,  and  we  had  a  fine  meal 
in  a  splendid  sleeping  car.  Then  to  our 
satisfaction  we  found  that  we  could  re- 
main in  this  car  between  whiles.  Fine 
looking  men,  something  like  our  Indians, 
were  working  in  the  fields.  But  where 
were  all  the  women?  It  seemed  a  world 
of  men  and  they  were  all  dressed  in  long 
blue  aprons  and  fur-lined  coats ;  and  as  an 
evidence  of  civilization,  many  wore  y el- 
US] 


China 

New  Shanghai.     Pagoda,  2000  Years  Old 


• 


THE  HILL  CITY  OF  HONG  KONG 

low  automobile  goggles  when  driving 
their  little  pony  carts  in  the  fields.  I 
don't  feel  yet  that  IVe  got  into  China 
and  hope  that  my  letter  from  Peking 
will  give  you  some  history. 

Sincerely, 

BEECH. 


l5i  J 


Chapter  V. 
PEKING,  FOUR  CITIES  IN  ONE. 


S.  S.      FENTUNG    , 
NOVEMBER  IOTH 


Dear  Bradford: 

1  got  your  letter  at  Peking  and  was 
mighty  glad  to  hear  all  the  news  about 
all  the  games  and  what  the  boys  are 
doing.     You  ask  me  to  tell  you  more 

(5*] 


China 
Peking.     Going  to  Ancestral  Worship 


>"     >  "  •*  1"^  ****0°%  «      »   -ill        "* 


PEKING,  FOUR  CITIES  IN  ONE 

about  the  real  geography  and  history  of 
the  countries  I  pass  through.  Now  you 
see  a  fellow  can't  grasp  everything,  and  you 
might  better  look  up  in  your  geography 
and  follow  me  around.  My,  but  China 
is  a  great  country! 

Where  do  you  think  I  am  writing  this? 
In  a  snug  little  English  boat  that  we  took 
at  Tientsin  to  go  back  to  Shanghai  from 
Peking.  The  wind  and  the  tide  seemed 
to  interfere  with  our  plan  and  we  are 
stranded  on  mud  flats  for  goodness  knows 
how  long,  so  I'll  have  time  to  tell  you 
about  our  banner  trip  to  Peking.  We 
did  so  much  sightseeing  there  we  didn't 
have  time  to  peek  in  a  shop,  although 
mother  wanted  to  buy  a  bamboo  bird  cage. 

When  the  train  pulled  into  Peking  at 
4  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  I  wasn't  pre- 
pared to  see  anything  wonderful,  and 
when  I  found  myself  going  like  mad  in  a 
'rickshaw  with  the  rest  of  our  party  and 
about  a  thousand  other  'rickshaws  through 
a  great  archway  in  an  immense  wall,  I 
got  a  thrill.  Such  a  racket  you  never 
heard ;  then  suddenly  we  came  to  a  broad 
quiet  street  with  large  fine  houses  on  each 
side  enclosed  in  high  walls.     In  one   I 

[55l 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

saw  Old  Glory  flying,  and  I  took  off  my 
hat  and  cheered.  Those  houses  belong 
to  the  legations  of  different  nations.  As 
usual,  the  coolies  made  a  rumpus  about 
their  pay,  when  we  reached  the  hotel. 
That's  because  dad  gives  them  too  much 
and  they  want  to  squeeze  a  little  more  out 
of  him.  We  went  to  the  Wagons  Lits 
hotel — that  means  "Sleeping  Car."  It 
belongs  to  the  railroad  company.  It  was 
cheering  to  hear  the  steam  leaking  out  of 
the  radiators  in  our  bedrooms,  for  you 
see  we  had  come  from  the  tropics,  where 
we  wore  thin  white  clothes  all  the  time, 
and  took  a  bath  every  day,  and  now  we 
had  jumped  into  winter.  At  Hankow 
mother  bought  me  heavy  boots,  thick 
stockings,  a  sweater  and  fur-lined  gloves. 
We  had  reason  to  be  happy  to  find  such 
a  warm  hotel  and  plenty  of  hot  water  for 
bathing.  The  next  day  was  Sunday  and 
we  all  bundled  up  to  go  to  the  "Temple 
of  Heaven,"  which  I  supposed  was  a 
church.  I  thought  maybe  I'd  see  a  lot 
of  Chinese  men  dressed  up  in  those  gor- 
geous robes  mother  likes  to  buy,  playing 
on  harps,  perhaps,  and  heavenly  blue 
tiles  on  all  the  floors.  Well,  we  got  a 
[56 


,HINA 

Peking.     Ancestral  Church 
Peking.    The  Altar  of  the  Temple  of  Heaven 


PEKING.  FOUR  CITIES  IN  ONE 

guide  and  our  'rickshaws  and  we  went 
inside  the  great  wall  through  the  Chinese 
City  over  a  pavement  not  less  than  2500 
years  old.  We  saw  thousands  of  men 
with  long  blue  nightshirts  on  and  black 
pigtails  hanging  down  their  backs,  and 
once  in  a  great  while  a  Chinese  woman 
in  a  'rickshaw,  with  her  face  painted 
white  and  her  cheeks  and  lips  red,  and  a 
big  black  headdress  with  flowers  stuck 
in  it.  Nobody  looked  at  her,  and  she 
only  opened  her  eyelids  a  tiny  bit  and 
looked  straight  ahead  at  nothing. 

I  was  afraid  we  would  be  late  for 
church,  as  the  way  was  so  long.  At  last 
we  reached  a  peaked  roof  entrance  and 
tumbled  out.  Then  we  started  to  walk, 
and  we  did  walk,  through  groves,  through 
gateways,  through  little  temples  and  so 
on.  At  last  we  stood  alone  on  a  high 
place  and  the  guide  told  us  that  this  was 
the  ' 'Temple  of  Heaven,"  much  to  my 
surprise.  Everybody  raved  about  it,  but 
I  was  a  little  disappointed  because  no  one 
else  was  there. 

I  like  Peking.  It  is  four  cities  in  one, 
and  each  one  is  walled,  and  then  there  is 
one  great  wall   around   them   all.     The 

[59] 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

* 'Forbidden  City"  is  near  the  station,  and 
all  you  can  see  of  it  are  roofs  covered  with 
yellow  tiles.  No  visitors  are  allowed 
there.  The  republic  has  given  this  city 
to  the  little  boy  Emperor  whose  kingdom 
has  been  taken  away  from  him.  He  and 
the  imperialists  can  stay  shut  up  there 
as  long  as  they  wish.  Then  there  is  the 
Tartar  City,  and  inside  of  it  the  Imperial 
City,  and  the  fourth  part  is  called  the 
Chinese  City.  It  is  a  Chinese  puzzle  for 
sure.  They  are  great  on  pagodas,  too. 
I  almost  forgot  to  say  a  word  about  them. 
When  they  wish  to  do  something  very 
sacred,  they  build  a  cocked  hat  Tower  of 
Babel.  Sometimes  these  towers  are  seven 
stories  high  and  there  is  a  priest  on  each 
floor.  They  make  good  barracks  for  the 
soldiers  now.  They  have  a  temple  of 
agriculture  where  the  United  States  sol- 
diers had  their  barracks  ten  years  ago. 

The  Chinese  are  responsible  for  giving 
to  the  world  the  torture  of  written  ex- 
aminations. They  had  a  great  building 
where  thousands  took  them  at  once,  but 
it  was  destroyed. 

Good-bye, 

BEECH. 
[60] 


Chapter  VI. 
A  LONG  TRIP  TO  THE  MING  TOMBS. 

NOVEMBER  IOTH 

Dear  cousin  Bradford: 

At  last  we  are  off  the  mud  flats  and 
bounding  like  a  rubber  ball  over  the 
Yellow  Sea.  This  boat  is  a  little  one, 
so  they  put  up  great  sails  to  steady  her. 
(61] 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

I  mailed  my  history  letter  yesterday,  and 
will  finish  up  our  Peking  trip.  I  do  like 
the  Chinamen,  they  seem  so  dignified  and 
patient,  they  are  such  workers  and  they 
aren't  too  painfully  clean.  I  thought 
they  were  cruel  to  their  women,  but  when 
I  learned  that  the  Chinese  women  have  a 
tongue  like  a  whip  lash,  and  that  men 
are  so  very  much  afraid  of  them  that 
they  bind  their  feet  so  that  they  cannot 
run  after  them  and  berate  them,  I  thought 
the  men  were  pretty  smart.  I  hear  that 
they  have  given  their  women  the  vote 
since  China  has  become  a  republic,  and 
that  Chinese  women  may  now  be  as  free 
as  the  "walkovers' '  will  allow.  I  think 
that  squeezed-in  feet  are  prettier  than 
squeezed-in  waists,  anyhow. 

When  I  first  heard  of  the  Ming  dynasty 
and  that  we  were  to  have  a  trip  across 
the  country  to  the  Ming  tombs,  it  was  a 
change  from  the  everlasting  dragon 
churches,  and  I  was  ready  for  new  sensa- 
tions. We  had  a  very  intelligent  guide 
and  his  name  is  Kowlatze.  He  put  on 
six  suits  to  make  the  trip,  so  we  were  pre- 
pared for  some  freeze.  We  started  early 
in  the  morning  and  went  over  a  fine  rail- 
[62] 


China 

Strange  Beasts  Afield 

En  Route  for  Ming  Tombs 


A  LONG  TRIP  TO  THE  MING  TOMBS 

road  made  by  the  Chinese  engineers  and 
coolies  to  Nanking.  There  we  had  "tif- 
fin" in  a  cute  little  Chinese  hotel.  We 
were  each  given  a  tiny  little  room  and  in 
each  a  tiny  little  coal  stove  was  going 
full  blast.  Everything  was  clean  and  we 
enjoyed  the  regulation  French  breakfast. 
Then  came  a  ride  of  22  miles.  Mother 
and  father  were  each  carried  in  a  chair 
on  the  shoulders  of  four  big  coolies.  I'll 
show  you  a  picture  of  them  when  I  come 
home.  Robert  and  I  had  a  little  pony 
apiece,  and  we  were  bundled  up  in 
numerous  capes  and  shawls. 

The  guide  rode  a  donkey  padded  out 
on  each  side,  and  a  man  ran  beside  us 
all  the  way.  We  started  off  across  a 
country,  bleak  and  bare,  over  a  narrow, 
rocky  trail,  up  hill  and  down,  nothing  in 
sight  but  the  quiet  hills  and  sometimes 
a  bunch  of  donkeys  carrying  loads  five 
times  as  big  as  themselves,  looking  like 
walking  straw  stacks.  We  trotted  on, 
but  I  guess  the  bareback  riders  didn't 
have  as  comfortable  a  time.  It  seemed 
very  perilous  from  a  distance.  Every 
300  steps,  the  coolies  who  carried  the 
chair  would  jerk  and  stop  and  change  the 
[65] 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

pole  to  the  other  shoulder  even  if  they 
were  going  up  a  steep  narrow  place. 
They  had  to  cross  running  streams  on 
slippery  stepping  stones,  but  father  and 
mother  are  old  stagers  now  and  they 
keep  stiff  upper  lips. 

In  about  an  hour  and  a  half  we  reached 
a  sort  of  gateway  of  five  arches  right  out 
in  the  open.  The  guide  said  that  it  was 
"most  imposing/'  but  it  wasn't  to  me. 
It  was  carved  all  over  with  serpents  and 
dragons,  and  was  somewhere  in  its  thou- 
sandth year.  "Why,"  said  mother,  as 
she  came  bouncing  up  from  a  sudden  jolt, 
"are  we  there  already?"  "No,  madam," 
said  our  guide.  "Allee  beginnee  here; 
five  millee  more." 

It  seems  when  Ming  was  alive  he  built 
his  own  tomb  and  made  this  archway  to 
call  attention  to  the  fact.  The  avenue 
leading  to  the  tomb  is  of  marble  and  five 
miles  long,  and  guarding  the  way  are 
colossal  marble  animals  12  feet  high, 
arranged  in  pairs — two  camels  standing 
and  at  a  little  distance  two  more  kneeling ; 
then  dogs  and  then  a  procession  of  im- 
mense marble  men,  and  they  have  all 
been  standing  for  ages  in  that  solitary 
[661 


China 
Mingville.     "Let  Us  Pray" 
Mingvih,e.     Mausoleum  of  Ming  the  Great.    Jug  Maker 


f*si 


A  LONG  TRIP  TO  THE  MING  TOMBS 

country  without  any  friends  or  admirers. 
It  must  be  lonesome  enough.  What  Mr. 
Ming  meant  by  it  all  I  didn't  find  out. 

On  and  on  we  rode  over  a  lop-sided 
pavement  and  marble  bridges  until  we 
saw  at  the  foot  of  some  mountains  that 
looked  for  all  the  world  like  the  dragons 
they  have  on  the  churches,  little  red  and 
yellow  tiled  roofed  settlements  dotted 
around.  I  thought  they  were  villages, 
but  they  proved  to  be  the  tombs  of  the 
emperors.  When  we  reached  the  en- 
trance to  the  largest  one  and  were  told 
that  it  was  Yong  Lo's  tomb,  I  thought  it 
was  time  to  find  out  for  sure  what  the 
Ming  dynasty  was  anyway,  for  we  had 
started  out  to  see  the  Ming  tombs  and 
the  only  one  we  had  time  to  see  was 
Yong  Lo's.  So  it  was  explained  to  me 
that  it  was  like  going  to  see  the  tombs  of 
the  Hanoverian  rulers  in  England;  we 
should  find  there  the  tombs  of  George 
the  Third,  William  and  Mary,  Queen 
Victoria  and  others.  The  Ming  dynasty 
means  the  emperors  of  one  period.  They 
were  a  very  intelligent,  art-loving  set  of 
rulers;  they  encouraged  the  making  of 
beautiful  pottery  and  beautiful  temples. 
[69] 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

Art  lovers  of  all  countries  search  for  Ming 
things  for  all  their  museums. 

When  we  came  out  again  at  the  en- 
trance we  had  a  cup  of  tea  and  some 
cakes  at  a  rough  little  table  and  then  we 
started  for  our  hotel.  It  was  already 
getting  dark,  the  sun  soon  set  and  the 
paper  lanterns  were  lit  on  the  chairs. 
The  cold  nipped;  at  last — ages  it  seemed 
— we  heard  the  welcome  sound  of  the 
engine  whistle  and  were  soon  warm  and 
happy. 

The  next  morning  we  were  up  at  five 
o'clock  to  take  a  construction  train  on 
our  way  to  see  the  famous  Wall  of  China. 
The  Chinese  seem  to  love  to  make  walls 
that  crawl  all  over  the  mountainsides; 
but  railroads  are  taking  the  place  of  walls 
now  and  instead  of  keeping  in,  they  are 
finding  how  to  get  out.  We  walked  up 
the  Nankow  pass,  rough  and  stony,  and 
the  wind  seemed  to  stick  pins  into  us  as 
we  scudded  along  to  get  under  the  shelter 
of  that  big  stone  wall — the  greatest  won- 
der in  the  world,  all  built  because  the 
Chinese  were  afraid.  It  is  so  long  that 
no  one  has  ever  been  around  it.  There 
are  little  stations  near  together  on  the 
[70] 


China 

The  Real  Wall 

A  Cold  Day  When  We  Left  the  Wall 


A  LONG  TRIP  TO  THE  MING  TOMBS 

top,  but  it  is  falling  to  pieces.  We 
couldn't  do  much  but  try  to  find  the 
warm  corners  and  stare  and  wonder.  We 
saw  a  caravan  of  camels  come  through 
the  gateway  into  Mongolia,  carrying  their 
heads  high,  and  taking  high  velvety  steps. 
Mother  says  that  China's  glory  is  yet 
to  come,  that  her  people  will  win  out 
against  greed  and  envy;  she  loves  peace, 
she  has  patience  and  tremendous  strength ; 
her  love  of  color,  art  and  design  are  even 
now  far  ahead  of  our  understanding.  To 
the  grown-ups  the  greatest  thing  in  China 
is  its  china.  Mother  says  that  a  vase 
can  tell  a  story  of  their  ideals  of  beauty, 
of  their  most  sacred  thought  and  of  the 
wonderful  insight  they  had  into  the  laws 
of  color,  harmony  and  design.  (She 
wrote  this,  and  I  copied  it.) 

Goodbye  to  China  and  to  you, 

BEECH. 


[73] 


N^" 


t  v  *     *w;       /  • 


Chapter  VII. 
TOURING  IN  CEYLON. 

AT  SEA, 
DECEMBER    l8TH 

Bear  Bradford: 

At  last  the  day  arrived  for  us  to  leave 
Colombo  and  to  take  the  train  for  the 
interior  of  Ceylon.  As  usual  we  were 
taken  to  the  station  in  'rickshaws. 

(Ml 


Ceylon 

Colombo.    Galle  Face  Hotel 

Colombo.    A  Street  Chat 


ft*'    •  ■>,»*>•    "»' -     ^ 


TOURING  IN  CEYLON 

A  "boy"  had  been  engaged  to  go  with 
us  there  and  through  India.  He  was  a 
high  class  Singalese  with  his  comb  and 
drapery  all  complete;  and  he  was  3mall, 
as  most  of  the  inhabitants  of  Colombo 
are,  but  he  had  a  very  important  and 
masterly  air  and  kept  beggars  and  low 
caste  men  out  of  our  way.  As  he  had 
such  an  unpronounceable  name  he  wished 
to  be  called  "Charlie,"  and  he  called  me 
"Master,"  the  same  as  he  did  Daddy. 
He  paid  our  bills  and  gave  small  tips 
when  necessary.  When  we  whirled  out 
of  Colombo  to  go  back  into  a  past  of 
2500  years,  my  thoughts  whirled,  too,  as 
I  tried  to  imagine  the  glories  of  the  holy 
city  of  Anuradhapura  at  that  time.  Stars 
were  out  when  we  arrived  at  the  station, 
and  I  could  see  the  mysterious  dagobas 
or  hills  and  water  tanks  all  around.  Then 
we  got  into  a  funny  little  bullock  cart  and 
were  jolted  over  the  stony  roads  to  our 
"rest  house"  where  we  were  to  have  din- 
ner. The  pilgrims  used  to  have  rest 
houses  instead  of  hotels,  so  the  one- 
storied  buildings  are  still  called  rest 
houses.  We  found  the  rooms  comfort- 
able and  the  dinner  like  all  the  others — 

[77] 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

soup,  fish,  meat  cakes,  chicken,  rice  and 
curry,  pumpkin  and  potatoes,  pudding, 
fruit  and  coffee.  You  can  always  find 
something  on  the  list  that  tastes  good. 

The  next  day  we  took  an  automobile 
and  a  guide  to  see  the  sights.  We  didn't 
get  an  early  start,  for  the  usual  rule  in 
hot  countries  is  to  have  tea,  bread  and 
jam  sent  to  the  bedrooms  at  7  o'clock 
then  breakfast  at  9;  so  I  had  time  to 
read  over  those  questions  and  answers 
mother  had  written  out  for  her  own  bene- 
fit as  well  as  mine,  so  we  would  know 
something  about  the  people  and  the 
things  they  built  and  why  they  built 
them. 

Who  was  Tissa  the  Good? 

He  was  the  King  of  Sinhala,  as  Ceylon 
was  then  called,  309  B.  C,  and  he  sent  to 
Emperor  Asoka  of  India,  whom  he  had 
never  met,  some  wonderful  jewels  by 
four  ambassadors,  to  show  him  what 
treasures  were  to  be  found  in  his  king- 
dom. Asoka  sent  back  "chrowrie"  (royal 
fly  flappers),  golden  slippers, sandalwood, 
one  hundred  and  sixty  loads  of  hill 
paddy,  rice  and  many  other  things,  and 
the  most  important  of  all,  a  letter  telling 
[78] 


Ceylon 

Colombo.     Seen  from  a  Distance 

Colombo.     A  Noisy  Neighbor 


v* :  i 


TOURING  IN  CEYLON 

Tissa  about  his  god  called  Buddha,  his 
doctrines,  etc.  Tissa  lived  in  Anura- 
dahpura. 

Who  was  Mahinda? 

He  was  the  son  of  Emperor  Asoka  of 
India,  a  Buddhist  monk,  who  was  sent 
with  four  other  priests  to  the  great  Tissa 
to  convert  him  to  Buddhism. 

What  is  Mihintale? 

It  is  the  name  of  a  rocky  hill  whose 
summit  is  reached  by  many  hundreds  of 
ancient  steps.  A  dense  forest  surrounds 
it. 

Where  did  Mahinda  meet  Tissa  the 
Good? 

On  the  top  of  Mihintale.  Tissa  had  been 
hunting  when  he  came  upon  Mahinda 
and  the  four  priests  sitting  peacefully  on 
the  top  of  this  mountain.  He  sat  down 
to  listen  to  the  story  they  told  of  Buddha, 
and  then  and  there  became  converted  and 
had  all  his  country  turn  Buddhists,  and  all 
good  Singalese  call  themselves  Buddhists 
today. 

What  is  a  Pirivena? 

It  was  a  school  building  for  young 
monks  who  were  supported  by  the  peo- 
ple. 

[81J 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

What  is  a  Dagoba? 

It  is  a  dome-shaped  temple  of  solid 
masonry  containing  a  relic  of  Buddha  or 
of  a  disciple. 

Who  was  Saghamitta  and  what  did  she 
bring  to  the  sacred  city  of  Anuradhapura? 

She  was  the  sister  of  Mahinda  and 
daughter  of  Asoka,  Emperor  of  India. 
She  came  to  the  holy  city  to  bring  a 
branch  of  the  sacred  Bo-tree  to  Tissa. 

What  is  the  sacred  Bo-tree? 

It  is  the  oldest  historical  tree  in  exis- 
tence. It  was  brought  to  Anuradah- 
pura  240  B.  C.  and  it  is  a  branch  of  the 
tree  Buddha  sat  under  when  he  meditated 
and  thought  out  the  system  of  Budd- 
hism. 

Who  was  Dutthagamini? 

He  was  one  of  Sinhala's  most  famous 
kings,  and  is  what  George  Washington  is 
to  us.  All  the  youngsters  in  Ceylon 
know  his  story.  He  lived  about  100 
years  after  Tissa  the  Great.  He  is  called 
Duttha — undutiful — because  he  would 
not  promise  to  let  the  Tamils  (a  foreign 
tribe)  stay,  as  his  father  wished  him,  in 
Anuradhapura.  He  was  handsome,  ath- 
letic, and  brave.  He  had  a  splendid 
[82] 


Ceylon 

Anuradhapura.     A  Real  Live  Dagoba 

Anuradhapura.     Puzzle:  Find  the  Relic  Inside 


TOURING  IN  CEYLON 

army  of  his  own.  One  day  when  he  was 
sixteen  years  old  he  asked  his  father  "to 
let  him  drive  out  the  Tamils.' '  His 
father  was  so  anxious  for  his  beloved  son 
that  he  would  not  give  him  permission. 
So  the  disappointed  boy  sent  his  father 
the  message  that  "if  he  were  a  man  he 
would  let  him  drive  out  an  enemy.' '  The 
father  was  angry,  and  ordered  a  gold 
chain  to  be  made  to  bind  the  boy,  but  the 
boy  ran  away.  He  became  sole  ruler  of 
Sinhala  161  B.  C,  the  greatest  of  all  the 
builders  and  a  strong  Buddhist.  He 
built  Ruwanweli  Dagoba  and  seven  piri- 
venas  and  many  water  tanks,  and  the 
"Brazen  Palace." 

We  went  first  to  see  the  sacred  Bo- 
tree.  I  am  sending  you  a  picture  of  it. 
It  looks  like  a  poplar,  and  is  in  an  enclo- 
sure walled  round  with  brick.  Daddy 
didn't  have  any  change,  so  he  gave  the 
priest  a  dollar,  and  he  gave  us  leaves  of 
the  tree,  blessed  us  and  let  us  take  his 
photograph.  The  priests  were  dressed  in 
yellow  and  had  ashes  on  their  heads. 
Then  we  saw  the  oldest  rock  temple  in 
Ceylon,  built  by  Tissa,  with  a  stone 
Buddha  in  it.  All  that  remains  of  the 
£85] 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

Brazen  Palace  are  a  lot  of  oblong  stones 
tumbling  over  each  other.  It  was  once 
a  grand  school,  all  covered  with  gold 
and  furnished  with  elegance.  We  passed 
it  in  the  auto.  The  greatest  dagoba 
which  Tissa  built  is  the  Thuparama.  It 
was  built  300  B.  C.  and  still  stands  sur- 
rounded by  its  classic  columns,  the  "most 
elegant  of  all  dagobas,"so  the  guide  book 
says.  Then  we  saw  the  dagoba  built  by 
Dutthagamini,  called  Ruwanweli.  It  is 
made  of  solid  brick.  It  has  many  trea- 
sures inside. 

After  lunch  we  had  a  fine  spin  over  a 
grand  road,  through  jungles  filled  with 
ruins.  There  were  Buddhas  in  stone 
sitting  in  meditation  by  the  wayside,  and 
coolies  working  hard  at  excavating  an- 
other ruined  city,  Morea.  We  did  have  a 
fine  time  at  Mihintale.  Look  at  the 
flights  of  steps  we  went  up,  and  there 
were  two  other  flights  besides.  We  saw 
a  regular  priest  city  on  top  away  up  in 
the  air.  It  was  on  this  hill  that  Budd- 
hism was  first  preached  to  Ceylon,  and 
it  was  Mahinda's  home  in  rainy  weather. 
There  was  his  bed  of  big  rocks,  and  a 
great  water  tank.  But  I  got  tired  of 
[86] 


Anuradhapura. 


Ceylon 
Kandy.    Temple  of  the  Sacred  Tooth 
Mahinda  Brought  Buddhism  Up  Here  to  Ceylon's  Ruler 


^ 


TOURING  IN  CEYLON 

dagobas  and  I  guess  you  have,  too.  The 
next  day  we  just  took  a  look  at  one  more 
dagoba,  the  highest  of  all — 400  feet  high 
and  1150  around.  We  had  a  fine  ride 
all  the  morning  over  splendid  roads, 
through  the  jungle,  with  lots  of  bright 
colored  birds  flying  about  singing,  and 
monkeys  chattering  and  grinning  at  us 
from  the  trees. 

At  noon  we  reached  a  rest  house  and 
started  out  at  once  to  see  the  famous 
Sigiriya  (Lion)  rock.  We  climbed  up 
and  up,  passing  troops  of  noisy  monkeys, 
and  before  we  got  to  the  top  we  were 
soaked  through  with  the  rain,  and  the 
wind  was  blowing  strongly.  But  we 
didn't  mind  anything,  because  we  were 
bound  to  see  how  King  Kasyapa  lived  up 
on  the  top  of  this  mountain  centuries  ago. 
No  enemy  could  ever  have  dislodged  him 
if  he  had  stayed  at  home.  He  had  a 
rock  throne,  a  large  audience  chamber 
painted  with  gay  colors,  large  water 
tanks,  trees  and  gardens.  The  next  day 
we  had  a  spicy  ride  through  cinnamon 
groves,  tea  and  coffee  plantations,  cocoa 
trees,  cloves  and  nutmegs,  and  rubber 
plantations.  Kandy  is  a  fine  mountain 
[89] 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

city  with  a  fine  hotel,  and  many  Euro- 
peans go  there  for  its  climate.  They 
make  many  silver  things  here  and  mother 
bought  an  antique  necklace  and  some  old 
Portuguese  jewelry. 

One  of  our  trips  was  to  the  caves  of 
Dambulla  high  up  in  the  mountains;  they 
are  painted  all  over  with  historical  scenes 
in  red  and  yellow  oil  paint,  as  bright  as 
if  they  had  just  been  done.  King  Wala- 
gamba,  who  took  refuge  here  when  he 
was  an  exile,  had  a  figure  of  Buddha  lying 
down,  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock.  It  is 
forty-seven  feet  long,  and  there  are  hun- 
dreds of  others  sitting  around  meditating. 
The  priests  are  so  anxious  to  get  a  little 
cash  for  themselves  that  they  are  a  great 
bother. 

The  next  day  we  were  glad  to  take  the 
train  for  Colombo  and  pack  our  trunks 
for  India. 

Your  loving  cousin, 

BEECH. 


[90] 


CXSZ& 


Chapter  VIII. 
INDIA,  LETTER  ONE. 


AT   SEA, 


L 


JANUARY    6TH 

My  dear  Bradford: 

We  have  said  goodbye  to  India  and 
are  on  a  big  steamer  headed  for  Port 
Said  with  five  days  more  before  we  land, 
so  I  must  write  you  something  of  what  I 

[91] 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

learned  of  that  great  country — a  job  that 
seems  almost  as  big  as  the  country  itself. 
We  learned  some  history  there.  They 
say  that  India  was  settled  by  Japhet  and 
his  sons,  so  you  see  that  it  is  a  genuine 
antique.  In  olden  times  the  Great  Mo- 
gul, as  the  ruler  was  called,  loaded  his 
clothing  with  rubies,  diamonds,  and  other 
precious  stones,  and  hung  ropes  of  pearls 
around  his  neck.  He  and  the  lesser 
rulers  lived  in  splendor,  and  for  amuse- 
ment used  to  fight  each  other  and  take 
away  each  other's  treasures.  Things 
went  on  like  this  for  many  years,  when 
Alexander  the  Great  appeared  on  the 
scene  in  327  B.  C.  Then  there  was  a 
great  battle  with  Porus.  It  was  the  first 
time  the  Greeks  had  ever  seen  such  sky 
scrapers  as  elephants,  but  they  shot  at 
their  legs  with  their  arrows,  and  the  ele- 
phants turned  and  trampled  down  their 
own  army,  and  Alexander  conquered  the 
northern  part  of  India.  Later  in  the 
game,  the  Portuguese  came  in  for  plunder, 
and  after  them  the  Dutch.  They  were 
traders  and  wanted  to  corner  the  spices 
and  pepper,  and  so  they  cut  down  great 
plantations  of  these  trees,  which  would 


mrm 


I  I  I  I  i.J 


I 


India 

Madura.     Gopuram — Down  the  Street 

Madura.    Temple  Tank  or  Golden  Lilies 


INDIA,  LETTER  ONE 


raise  the  price.  Then  the  English  organ- 
ized the  East  India  Company  and  sailed 
into  the  Dutch  in  spicy  fashion.  The 
natives  saw  that  much  money  was  going 
out  of  their  country  and  so  they  went  to 
war  about  it,  but  although  they  had  many 
more  soldiers  than  the  English,  they  had 
not  the  training  and  skill,  and  the  Eng- 
lish won  the  battle  almost  every  time. 
Sir  Thomas  Roe,  one  of  England's  first 
ambassadors  to  India,  won  the  respect  of 
the  Great  Moguls  for  he  wasn't  afraid  of 
any  of  them,  and  didn't  "Kow  tow"  to 
them.  They  borrowed  his  sword  from 
him  and  kept  him  with  them  three  years. 
When  Charles  Second  of  England  married 
Princess  Catherine  of  Portugal,  he  was 
given  the  island  of  Bombay,  which  be- 
longed to  the  King  of  Portugal,  as  part 
of  her  dowry.  As  he  didn't  have  any 
use  for  it  he  sold  it  to  the  East  India  Com- 
pany for  ten  pounds,  which  shows  that 
England  didn't  steal  India. 

Through  the  leadership  of  a  young 
clerk,  Robert  Clive,  the  English  were  suc- 
cessful in  fighting  against  the  combined 
forces  of  French  and  Indian,  without 
really  meaning  to  gain  territory  for  Eng- 

(95l 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

land.  When  Clive  went  back  to  England 
the  Indians  arose  and  tried  to  throw  off 
English  rule.  Fifty  thousand  men 
marched  into  Calcutta  and  attacked  the 
English  fort  there.  The  president  of  the 
East  India  Company  and  the  captains  took 
the  women  and  children  in  their  ships 
and  sailed  away  with  them,  and  less  than 
two  hundred  men  were  left  to  their  fate. 
They  were  all  crowded  into  a  prison  house 
only  eighteen  feet  square,  with  two  small 
windows,  barred  at  the  top,  and  kept 
there  all  night.  They  didn't  have  an 
inch  to  move  in,  and  in  the  morning  only 
twenty- three  were  alive.  This  is  the 
awful  story  of  the  Black  Hole  of  Cal- 
cutta. Clive  came  back  to  India  in  hot 
haste  and  fought  the  great  battle  of 
Plassey,  where  he  lost  only  twenty-two 
men  to  six  hundred  of  the  Indians,  and 
that  gave  to  Britain  the  whole  of  Bengal. 
In  1700  a  most  unfair  spirit  of  trade 
ruled  in  India;  everybody  tried  to  get  all 
they  could  and  give  as  little  as  possible. 
The  poor  natives  were  cheated  and  mis- 
ery prevailed.  Then  England  sent  over 
to  India  a  young  man  named  Warren 
Hastings,  who  was  one  of  the  few  saved 
[96] 


Madura.     Sacred  Tank  and  Temple 
Benares.     Early  Morning  Ride  to  See  the  Ghats 


-    J  . .  -         «     .  ■ 


INDIA,  LETTER  ONE 

in  the  Black  Hole.  A  dreadful  famine 
had  just  swept  over  the  land,  and  he  had 
a  job  on  his  hands.  "Clive  by  his  sword 
won  a  great  empire,  Hastings  kept  it  and 
made  British  rule  in  India  sure.'*  He 
was  an  honorable  man  and  worked  for  the 
good  of  the  whole  country,  but  he  had 
enemies  who  were  jealous  of  him,  and 
after  doing  his  best  for  sixteen  years,  he 
went  back  to  England  and  was  under 
trial  seven  years  for  bribery  and  misrule. 
I  suppose  every  school  boy  knows  "The 
Defense  of  Warren  Hastings."  England 
sent  over  other  men  to  rule  India,  who 
made  good  roads  and  built  railways  and 
put  up  telegraph  lines.  They  had  many 
Hindu  soldiers  in  service,  whose  religion 
didn't  allow  them  to  eat  meat,  and  there 
were  other  ancient  customs  that  they 
didn't  want  to  give  up;  but  they  were 
ordered  to  take  off  their  turbans,  cut  off 
their  hair,  leave  caste  marks  off  their 
foreheads,  and  finally  they  were  given  a 
new  cartridge  that  was  greased  on  the 
end  with  lard  and  had  to  be  bitten  off 
before  using.  Now  to  a  Brahman  a  pig 
is  most  unclean,  and  the  soldiers  were 
wild.     It   was   just   one   hundred   years 

[99} 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

since  the  Black  Hole,  when  a  worse  thing 
happened;  it  is  called  the  Mutiny  at 
Delhi.  The  native  soldiers  turned  against 
the  English  and  killed  all  they  could. 
After  a  long  siege  at  Lucknow,  General 
Havelock  came  to  the  rescue.  Then 
England  decided  that  the  Queen  should 
take  India  in  hand  and  govern  it,  by  love 
if  possible,  by  force  if  necessary. 

I  will  end  this  brief  history  by  telling 
you  that  when  we  were  in  Delhi  two  weeks 
ago,  the  Viceroy  of  India  was  holding  a 
Durbar  at  the  time  of  making  Delhi  the 
capital  city  of  northern  India,  and  a 
bomb  exploded  in  the  howdah  where 
Lord  and  Lady  Hardinge  were  riding, 
but  it  didn't  do  much  damage  and  the 
procession  moved  on  as  if  nothing  had 
happened. 

History  is  still  making  in  India. 

Goodbye^ 

BEECH. 


[ioo] 


'     ♦  t 


/ 


^ 


t«»^ 


Chapter  IX. 
INDIA,  LETTER  TWO. 


AT   SEA, 


JANUARY     IOTH 

My  dear  Bradford: 

Of  all  the  people  on  earth  I  think 
the  natives  of  India  are  the  most  inter- 
esting to  study.  They  are  supposed  to 
come  from  the  Aryan  race  as  we  do. 
[ioi] 


,1  \ 

.  4. 

FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

They  are  divided  into  four  castes,  but 
nobody  knows  for  certain  how  this 
started,  nor  why  they  so  everlastingly 
stick  to  it.  They  still  have  a  book  of 
their  early  hymns  and  prayers  called 
Vedas.  Brahmanism,  which  came  later, 
was  a  belief  in  one  universal  Spirit  which 
enters  gods,  men  and  nature.  Prose  was 
added  to  the  Vedas  and  called  Brah- 
manas.  The  first  caste  was  the  Brah- 
mans  or  priests,  second  the  warriors, 
called  Kshatriya,  then  the  Vaisyas  or  trad- 
ers and  manufacturers,  the  fourth  called 
Sudras,  the  non-Aryan  tribes  who  had 
been  conquered  and  made  slaves.  The 
priests  held  firm  control  over  the  country 
and  insisted  upon  the  rule  of  caste  be- 
cause it  put  them  at  the  head.  The 
system  seemed  to  work  pretty  well  for 
the  first  three  classes,  for  they  didn't  in- 
terfere with  each  other,  but  each  went  on 
with  his  praying,  fighting  or  manufac- 
turing without  jealousy  or  ambition. 
Now  fancy  going  into  a  country  still  ruled 
by  such  ideas! 

The   Mohammedan  Turks   conquered 
and  forced  their  religion  upon  the  Hindus 
for  several  hundred  years,  but  they  didn't 
[102] 


India 

Benares.    One  or  Fifty  Ghats 

Benares.    Priest  and  Worshipped  Gods 


'.:  f 


INDIA,  LETTER  TWO 

accept  or  acquire  anything  from  them 
except  their  turbans  and  some  wonderful 
buildings  which  I  shall  tell  you  about 
later,  and  the  Turks  were  driven  out. 
Then  the  English  took  possession,  and 
that  finished  the  struggle. 

I  am  going  to  tell  you  what  we  saw  in 
Madura,  then  you  can  see  what  "going 
to  church"  means  in  India.  There  is 
one  great  temple  in  that  city  entered  by 
eight  high  gates  or  gopurams  made  of 
mud  and  covered  by  a  thousand  figures 
of  Noah's  family  and  heathen  mythology. 
We  went  into  the  temple  at  evening. 
We  might  have  been  going  to  a  circus. 
There  was  a  great  beating  of  tom-toms 
through  the  streets  of  the  temple,  pro- 
cessions of  priests  chanting  at  the  top  of 
their  voices,  dancing  girls,  stray  sacred 
white  bulls  wandering  around,  and  stalls 
on  the  side  where  offerings  or  merchan- 
dise could  be  bought.  As  far  as  we  could 
see  the  inside  of  the  arches  was  lighted  by 
little  oil  cups,  and  the  floors  were  lined 
with  beggars  and  holy  men  who  are  not 
allowed  to  work  for  a  living.  The  men 
were  dressed  in  white  cloths  and  had 
marks  of  some  sort  on  their  foreheads. 
[105I 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

At  one  shrine  a  young  priest  in  yellow 
robes  threw  garlands  of  yellow  flowers 
around  each  one  of  our  necks,  but  when 
Daddy  gave  him  only  a  rupee  he  made 
such  a  fuss  that  Daddy  tossed  his  gar- 
land back  to  him.  The  next  morning, 
by  paying  fifteen  rupees,  five  dollars,  we 
saw  all  their  treasures — there  were  golden 
calves,  bulls,  horses,  imaginary  animals 
and  chariots  and  a  Juggernaut  car. 
Mother  thought  the  jewels  were  the  most 
wonderful  she  had  ever  seen. 

In  Benares,  the  most  holy  city  in  India, 
we  went  first  to  see  the  brass  ware.  One 
street  is  filled  with  brass  shops,  brass  gods 
by  the  thousands,  vases,  cups,  and  the 
small  water  jars  which  the  people  carry 
wherever  they  go — into  the  fields,  on  a 
railway  journey,  or  to  a  temple  to  wor- 
ship. The  women  often  carry  three  large 
ones  filled  with  water  on  their  heads. 
Those  jars  are  always  kept  shining.  There 
were  also  little  square  flower  baskets  to 
carry  offerings  to  the  temples.  I  thought 
a  collection  of  Hindu  gods  would  interest 
the  folks  at  home  so  I  bought  a  few: 
Brahma,  who  stands  for  the  creator  of  all 
— he  has  four  heads  and  arms;  Saraswati, 
[106] 


India 

Fatehpur-Sikri.    Akbar's  Tomb 

Fatehpur-Sikri.    One  House  in  This  Empty  Town 


INDIA,  LETTER  TWO 

his  wife,  who  is  the  goddess  of  music, 
speech,  art  and  literature;  Vishnu,  who 
is  called  the  preserver,  has  one  head  and 
four  arms.  He  holds  a  club,  a  lotus 
flower,  a  conch  shell  and  a  quoit  in  his 
hands.  They  say  he  has  been  on  the 
earth  nine  times,  and  is  expected  the 
tenth.  His  wife,  Lakshmi,  sits  on  a  cobra 
or  hooded  snake,  representing  eternity, 
and  she  has  a  little  Brahma  in  her  arms. 

The  Hindus  have  men  whom  they 
specially  honor  because  of  their  unusual 
lives.  One  was  called  Rama.  I  have  a 
dandy  little  statue  of  him.  He  was  a 
model  son  and  husband.  When  friends 
meet,  it  is  common  for  them  to  salute 
each  other  by  saying,  "Rama,  Rama." 
He  had  a  faithful  servant  who  was  named 
Hanuman,  and  a  brass  god  with  the  head 
of  a  monkey  represents  him.  When  the 
Hindus  want  help  they  bring  flowers  and 
trinkets  to  him.  No  one  would  kill  a 
monkey  in  India,  for  they  are  sacred  to 
him. 

Krishna  was   the  other   teacher  who 

came  to  deliver  men  from  evil — anger, 

and  avarice,  and  his  statue  is  the  best  of 

all.    The  figure  stands  on  a  serpent,  for 

[109  J 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

when  a  boy,  he  killed  the  serpent  Kali 
by  holding  its  tail  in  one  hand  and  a  lotus 
flower  in  the  other.  He  has  two  other 
hands,  and  they  are  playing  a  flute. 
Mother  told  me  that  the  educated  Hindus 
call  him  the  "soul  of  India."  If  they 
had  left  out  Shiva,  the  destroyer,  and 
Durga  the  terrible  or  Kali,  as  she  is 
called,  they  would  have  done  better.  You 
can  tell  Shiva  from  the  others  because  he 
wears  a  tiger  skin  and  carries  a  noose,  a 
trident,  an  antelope  and  a  drum  in  his 
four  hands.  Shiva's  son  is  a  fat  devil  with 
an  elephant's  head.  He  brings  good  luck. 
I  shall  not  soon  forget  the  sight  we  had 
one  early  morning  when  we  took  a  boat 
down  the  sacred  river  Ganges.  Most  of 
the  rivers  of  India  are  sacred,  but  the 
Ganges  is  the  most  sacred  of  all.  On  the 
city  side  are  built  many  "ghats"  or  land- 
ing places.  The  banks  are  high  and 
steps  and  temples  are  crowded  in  up  to 
the  top.  We  saw  thousands  of  people 
washing  their  bodies  in  the  most  devout 
manner,  praying,  and  drinking  the  water. 
Many  holy  men  sat  cross-legged  in  little 
cells  meditating,  trying  to  think  out  the 
mystery  of  life  and  how  they  may  escape 
[no] 


India 
JCutab.    Our  Sheik.  Guide 


INDIA.  LETTER  TWO 

coming  back  to  earth  into  ever  so  many 
different  animals  before  they  can  reach 
heaven.  We  could  see  the  sacred  thread 
of  cotton,  a  symbol  of  their  faith,  which 
the  high  class  men  wear.  It  is  always 
blessed  by  a  Brahman  priest.  They 
never  eat  meat  or  kill  animals  of  any 
kind;  they  give  a  lot  of  money  to  the 
priests  and  beggars,  and  fast  and  do  pen- 
ance, and  above  all  they  never  touch  or 
speak  to  a  low  caste  person.  Their  most 
sacred  animal  is  the  cow,  and  they  think 
that  all  are  heathen  who  wear  leather 
shoes  or  eat  beef.  They  won't  even  kill 
a  mosquito.  They  eat  the  simplest  vege- 
table food  on  clean  freshly  gathered 
leaves,  and  they  wash  themselves  many 
times  a  day.  The  real  business  of  their 
lives  seems  to  be  to  keep  the  body  clean 
and  to  pray  for  enlightenment.  With  all 
this  craze  for  cleanliness  we  were  sur- 
prised to  find  in  the  temples  such  filth, 
poverty  and  disease.  Everywhere  hun- 
dreds of  beggars,  horrid  smells,  and  Shiva 
and  Kali  images  covered  with  flowers. 
India  is  not  a  land  of  graves,  like  China. 
When  any  one  passes  on,  the  body  is  put 
in    cloth    or    palm    leaves    and    quickly 

[113I 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

burned,  and  the  ashes  are  thrown  into 
the  Ganges.  We  went  to  one  temple  de- 
voted to  Durga  where  a  goat  is  sacrificed 
every  morning  to  gain  her  favor.  The 
priests  can  eat  that  holy  meat.  Hun- 
dreds of  monkeys  run  all  over  the  temple, 
and  it  is  anything  but  clean. 

Perhaps  you  will  remember  what  I 
wrote  you  about  Buddhism  in  Japan  and 
China.  Well  it  was  in  Benares  that 
Gautama  Buddha  began  to  teach  his 
ideas  about  the  creation  six  hundred  years 
before  Christ  and  we  went  to  see  where 
he  lived  in  a  deer  park  with  his  five  dis- 
ciples. It  is  called  Sarnath,  and  there  is 
an  immense  unfinished  stupa,  which  is 
like  a  dagoba,  only  it  hasn't  any  relics  in 
it,  but  just  marks  the  place  of  Buddha's 
teaching.  There  is  a  tower  built  by  King 
Asoka,  who  gave  the  Buddhist  religion 
a  great  start,  272  B.  C.  But  today  Bur- 
mah,  Ceylon,  China  and  Japan  worship 
the  calm  meditating  figure  more  than 
they  do  in  India. 

I  am  sure  that  you  will  think  this  is 
enough  about  false  gods. 


Yours  lovingly y 
[114] 


BEECH. 


4 


A 


/Ha, 


\ 


i^fely  « 


rk 


Chapter  X. 
INDIA,  LETTER  THREE. 

THE     RED     SEA, 
JANUARY     IOTH 

My  dear  Bradford: 

We  liked  Agra  with  its  mosques  and 
fine  buildings  and  the  stories  of  Akbar 
and  Shah  Jahan.  They  were  two  among 
many  Turks  who  ruled  India,  and  they 

["51 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

are  specially  remembered  for  their  talent 
in  building.  One  of  the  sights  today  is 
the  palace  called  Fatehpur-Sikri  built  by 
Akbar  who  lived  there  in  1568.  There 
are  twelve  different  buildings  enclosed  by 
a  high  wall.  The  pavement  is  of  marble 
and  made  like  a  parches!  board,  and  when 
they  played  the  game,  slave  girls  were 
used  as  checkers.  We  saw  the  elephant 
stables,  the  audience  room,  and  Akbar's 
sleeping  rooms,  called  "the  palace  of 
dreams/ '  The  Fort  is  another  one  of 
the  sights,  partly  built  by  Akbar.  It  is 
a  collection  of  palaces  surrounded  by 
walls  of  red  sandstone  seventy  feet  high. 
But  Shah  Jahan  outdid  all  the  others 
when  he  built  the  wonderful  Taj  Mahal, 
the  tomb  of  his  beloved  wife  and  queen, 
for  all  the  world  says  that  it  is  most 
chaste,  romantic  and  beautiful.  It  was 
twenty-two  years  in  building.  Mother 
says  that  it  is  a  sacred  symbol  of  pure 
human  love,  rare  in  a  land  like  India, 
where  they  think  women  are  inferiors. 
I  wanted  to  bring  home  a  little  ivory 
model  of  the  Taj,  but  as  it  cost  $100,  I 
decided  to  get  along  without  it. 

Not  only  the  mosques  have  domes  but 
[116] 


India 

Agra.    The  Famous  Taj  Mahal 

Taj  Mahal's  Builder— Shah  Jahan 


'7?  »  « 


1         «      J     A' 

■ 


INDIA,  LETTER  THREE 

the  tombs  as  well,  domes  and  mosques 
everywhere.  At  Delhi  I  enjoyed  our  ride 
in  a  rickety  little  automobile  when  we 
went  to  see  the  Kutal  Minar,  a  big  tower 
238  feet  high,  called  "the  tower  of  vic- 
tory/ '  Jaipur  is  a  pinkish  purple  town, 
all  the  buildings  are  of  that  color,  and 
it  is  run  by  a  real  Indian  Maharaja.  It 
reminded  us  of  Canton,  for  there  are 
many  shops  and  everybody  busy — print- 
ing cloth  with  print  blocks  by  hand, 
making  enamels  and  all  kinds  of  art  pot- 
tery and  brass  ware.  We  had  a  great 
ride  of  three  miles  to  Amber  on  the  top 
of  a  huge  elephant,  to  see  the  old  palace 
of  the  Maharaja.  "Slow  as  cold  mo- 
lasses" was  no  name  for  it.  One  Hindu, 
sitting  on  the  elephant's  head,  jabbed 
his  thick  hide  and  another  walked  behind 
punching  his  legs.  We  met  several  par- 
ties coming  and  going  over  the  hills.  I 
must  say  that  I  enjoyed  every  minute  of 
it,  but  Daddy,  who  had  never  gone  so 
slow  in  his  life  before,  wanted  to  get  off 
and  walk,  because  he  knew  he  could  go 
twice  as  fast  as  the  elephant.  However, 
as  it  was  a  piping  hot  day  he  concluded 
he  would  at  least  be  cooler  where  he  was. 

[»9l 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

Our  next  novel  ride  was  in  a  Tonka,  a 
wagon  with  two  seats  back  to  back,  up 
Mount  Abu,  eighteen  miles  into  the  sky. 
I  imagined  myself  in  a  Roman  chariot. 
We  changed  horses  every  two  or  four 
miles  and  rattled  on  at  reckless  speed. 
Our  driver  and  footman  wore  great  yel- 
low turbans,  and  how  the  dust  did  fly! 
And  what  do  you  think?  When  we 
reached  the  top  of  that  mountain,  I 
found  we  had  come  all  this  way  to  see  a 
Jain  temple.  Then  we  all  had  to  learn 
something  about  the  Jains.  They  are 
the  strictest  sect  of  all  the  Hindu  people, 
and  despise  the  others.  They  build  their 
temples  together  in  high  places.  They 
love  animals  alive,  not  cooked,  and  would 
not  kill  the  tiniest  creature.  They  even 
loved  them  better  than  their  fellow  men. 
I  saw  some  beautiful  pigeon  roosts  they 
made  in  one  city  with  marble  columns 
and  much  decorated  walls.  But  I  re- 
member better  the  glorious  ride  down  the 
hill. 

The  Sikhs  are  a  fine  class  of  Indian 

men  who  do  not  believe  in  caste,  do  not 

worship  idols  nor  drink  or  smoke,  and 

they  are  loyal  English  subjects.     They 

[120] 


INDIA,  LETTER  THREE 

have  no  leader,  but  a  book  which  guides 
them,  but  we  saw  no  temple  belonging  to 
them. 

At  Bombay  we  stopped  at  a  Parsee 
hotel,  a  grand  one  too,  so  clean  and  such 
good  food.  Zoroaster  is  their  teacher, 
and  they  seem  to  put  their  religion  into 
practice.  They  are  very  clean,  very  de- 
vout, and  honest  in  business.  Two  firms 
actually  refunded  money  to  us  when  they 
had  made  a  mistake  in  the  reckoning. 

Goodbye ,  and  now  for  Egypt,  yours, 

BEECH. 


I123I 


U>7N 


Chapter  XI. 
EGYPT,  LETTER  ONE. 

ON  THE  MEDITERRANEAN, 
FEBRUARY    I2TH 

My  dear  Bradford: 

1  have  been  in  Egypt  just  four  weeks, 
enjoying  donkey  rides  over  the  desert, 
seeing  great  heaps  of  stones  called  pyra- 
mids, going  up  the  Nile  in  the  finest  little 

[124I 


a»-s 
•  •     . •  ......         «       -  V 

;  •        :-        : 


EGYPT,  LETTER  ONE 

steamers,  getting  off  to  see  old,  old  tem- 
ples with  their  walls  covered  with  pic- 
tures cut  in  the  rocks,  of  gods,  goddesses, 
kings,  bulls  and  all  sorts  of  animals; 
going  down  into  deep,  deep  tombs  carry- 
ing a  candle  which  dripped  the  tallow  all 
over  your  clothes  while  you  looked  at  the 
brilliantly  colored  pictures  of  what  they 
thought  would  happen  after  they  left 
this  world.  As  far  as  I  could  make  out, 
they  had  to  go  boat  riding  with  a  jackal, 
and  stand,  when  they  landed,  before  a 
great  god  and  have  their  souls  weighed 
by  a  dog-headed  ape  against  a  feather, 
and  then  "good-bye,  John,  if  you  have  a 
heavy  heart." 

We  rode  on  a  "ship  of  the  desert"  as  a 
camel  is  called,  and  saw  Nubians  in  their 
native  huts.  We  saw  the  great  Rock 
Temple  at  Abu  Simbel  that  Rameses  the 
second  built  to  glorify  himself  as  God. 
Would  you  believe  it,  a  little  stone  wife 
and  the  daughter  who  took  Moses  out 
of  the  bulrushes  were  right  beside  his 
great  toe.  All  the  Egyptian  Kings  were 
called  Pharaohs,  you  know,  but  he  was 
the  one  who  made  life  a  burden  for  the 
Israelites.  We  even  saw  the  great  treas- 
[127I 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

ure  houses  he  built.  Half  of  the  temples 
in  Egypt  today  are  decorated  with  his 
seal  or  cartouche,  and  we  found  pieces 
of  his  great  stone  images  spread  over  the 
plains.  He  wanted  to  live  forever  (as 
of  course  we  all  do),  but  he  didn't  want 
to  be  forgotten  on  this  earth,  and  he  has 
his  wish,  for  I  saw  his  very  face  in  a 
mummy  case  in  the  Cairo  Museum  where 
thousands  of  Cook's  tourists  gaze  at  him 
every  year,  but  I  can't  see  that  it  helps 
him  any,  wherever  he  is. 

If  I  wanted  to  write  you  a  real  true 
story  of  Egypt,  I  would  have  to  go  dig- 
ging with  the  rest  of  the  explorers  and  find 
a  stone  tablet  covered  with  carvings  of 
birds,  crooked  sticks,  bugs  and  snakes, 
called  hieroglyphics,  which  some  learned 
man  would  decipher  for  me,  that  would 
tell  just  exactly  a  few  definite  things 
about  the  far-away  past.  Then  other 
tablets  must  be  found  settling  all  points 
where  historians  differ;  after  that  I  would 
have  to  cram  myself  with  the  history  of 
Ethipoia,  Persia,  Macedonia,  Greece, 
Rome,  Arabia,  Turkey,  France,  and  Eng- 
land, for  all  of  them  have  had  a  big  finger 
in  the  pie  of  Egypt,  but  the  only  nation 
[128] 


Egypt 

Penderah.     Ibrahim  Giving  a  Call  to  Show  Us  Cleopatra  On 

the  Wall 


EGYPT.  LETTER  ONE 

that  has  succeeded  in  keeping  it,  is 
England,  and  she  didn't  really  want  the 
bother  of  looking  after  it.  "And  still  the 
original  Egyptian  type  of  6000  years  ago 
works  his  little  water  mills  at  the  side  of 
his  beloved  river,  rides  on  the  haunches 
of  his  little  donkey,  raises  wheat  and 
sugar  cane  just  as  he  did  when  Abraham 
visited  this  beautiful  lily  and  papyrus 
land."  He  now  wears  his  crown  of  the 
upper  and  lower  Egypt  in  the  shape  of  a 
Turkish  fez  or  a  Mohammedan  turban, 
and  is  governed  by  a  Christian  nation. 

You  would  be  surprised  to  find  that 
the  weather  is  not  a  topic  of  conversa- 
tion; it  is  always  sunny  and  bright,  cold 
in  the  morning  and  at  night.  The  Nile 
makes  Egypt.  Their  year  is  divided  into 
four  months  of  sowing,  four  months  of 
growing,  and  four  months  for  overflow- 
ing. Father  showed  me  at  Assouan,  where 
we  rode  on  little  tram  cars,  how  English 
engineers  had  built  this  great  reservoir  to 
hold  back  the  Nile  from  being  wasteful. 

When  I  promised  to  write  you  easy 

history  and  geography,   I  didn't  realize 

that  it  would  be  easy  only  for  you.     I 

have  to  read  and  study  a  lot,  and  it  seems 

[131] 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

to  me  that  each  country  gets  harder. 
"Where  in  the  world  is  one  to  find  the 
written  history  of  this  oldest  civilization 
in  the  known  world ?"  I  asked  mother. 
She  said  that  historians  regarded  the 
Bible  as  most  valuable  help,  and  that  the 
stone  tablets  found  in  the  temple  at 
Sakara  and  Abydos  contained  lists  of 
kings  and  the  years  of  their  reign,  and 
that  a  priest  named  Manetho,  about  250 
B.  C.  wrote  a  history  and  divided  the  list 
of  kings  from  Menes  to  Alexander  the 
Great  into  thirty-one  dynasties  or  reigns 
of  different  royal  houses;  so  as  I  couldn't 
get  Manethos'  history  I  studied  up 
Baedeker  and  the  Bible  for  your  benefit. 

Before  starting  to  introduce  the  most 
noted  of  Egyptian  kings  to  you,  I  must 
tell  you  something  of  their  beliefs  and 
customs.  They  were  great  believers  in  a 
Supreme  power  that  expected  them  to  do 
the  right  thing  towards  their  fellow  man, 
and  who  commanded  their  worship  and 
gifts.  They  found  chapters  of  a  sacred 
book  in  some  mysterious  way  at  different 
times  that  told  them  about  the  future.  It 
was  called  by  translators  "The  book  of  the 
dead,"  but  it  meant  to  them,  "coming 

1 13*  J 


•     • 


EGYPT.  LETTER  ONE 

forth  by  day."  They  believed  that  many 
of  the  things  they  saw  about  them,  the 
animals,  plants,  sun,  were  sacred.  They 
always  had  a  trinity — Father,  Mother 
and  Son,  in  their  religion,  but  in  different 
parts  of  the  country  had  different  names 
for  them.  Almost  the  only  myth  they 
based  their  hopes  of  eternal  life  on  was 
their  tradition  of  Osiris.  It  is  some- 
thing like  this:  Once  upon  a  time,  God, 
who  had  many  names,  decided  to  rule  the 
lower  sphere  of  earth  so  he  appeared  as 
four  different  kings.  At  first,  their  Osiris, 
the  son  of  Seb  and  Nut  (Father-Mother 
God)  took  the  throne  and  became  king 
of  upper  and  lower  Egypt.  He  was  so 
good  a  king  and  loved  his  people  so  well 
that  he  aroused  envy  in  the  heart  of  Set, 
a  spirit  of  evil,  who  killed  him  and  put 
his  body  in  a  coffin  and  threw  it  in  the 
Nile.  Isis,  his  wife,  wild  with  grief, 
searched  for  the  coffin;  at  last  when  she 
found  it  and  was  taking  it  to  Memphis 
to  have  the  body  mummified,  Set  stole 
it  from  her  and  cut  it  up  in  fourteen  pieces 
which  he  hid  in  different  places.  The 
sad  wife  searched  Egypt  over  until  she 
found  them  and  buried  them  together. 

[135] 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

She  called  upon  Horus  to  avenge  his 
father,  so  Horus  had  a  fierce  fight  with 
Set.  Osiris  returned  from  the  "Elysian 
Fields/'  as  they  called  the  unknown  hea- 
venly state,  and  encouraged  Horus  to  fight 
on  until  he  killed  Set,  the  spirit  of  evil. 
The  resurrection  of  Osiris  was  the 
strongest  belief  they  had,  and  it  was  the 
foundation  of  their  religion.  Osiris,  Iris 
and  Horos  form  a  most  loved  trinity. 
As  they  had  over  eighty-seven  different 
names  for  God,  and  as  each  name  was 
also  associated  with  an  animal,  I  won't 
try  to  give  you  a  list.  Ptah  was  wor- 
shipped at  Memphis  in  the  first  century. 
He  was  called  the  father  of  all  gods,  and 
it  was  thought  that  all  the  other  gods 
came  from  his  eye,  and  mankind  from  his 
mouth.  I  speak  especially  of  him  be- 
cause he  was  the  first  represented  on  the 
walls  of  the  temples  as  holding  the  sceptre 
made  of  the  key  of  life,  strength  and  sta- 
bility. That  sceptre  and  its  different 
signs  separately  is  seen  by  the  hundreds 
in  all  the  temples  and  all  gods  hold  the 
sceptre.  The  impression  one  gains  of  the 
ruling  thought  of  Egyptian  kings  is  that 
they  wanted  to  have  eternal  life,  enduring 
[136] 


Egypt 
Esnkh.     Ibrahim  Showing  Off  By  a  Curfew  Tower 


EGYPT.  LETTER  ONE 


strength,  and  stability  of  character,  from 
their  gods.  The  business  of  life  with  the 
kings  of  Egypt  seemed  to  be  to  prepare 
tombs,  first  for  themselves,  then  their 
wives  and  sacred  animals,  and  in  such 
deep  and  hidden  places  that  they  could 
never  be  found ;  then  to  build  temples  and 
obelisks  to  their  god.  Egypt  is  full  of 
them.  Today  at  Karnak,  Abydos,  and 
on  each  side  of  the  Nile,  they  show  such 
wonderful  knowledge  of  architecture  and 
beauty  that  the  globe-trotters  from  all 
countries  crowd  their  avenues  with  delight. 
The  kings  generally  had  four  or  five 
names  written  in  two  cartouches.  We  see 
their  cartouches  cut  by  the  thousand  on 
the  pillars  and  walls  of  their  temples  and 
on  scarabs.  We  hear  so  much  about 
scarabs  in  Egypt  and  so  many  are  offered 
for  sale  that  I  was  curious  to  find  out 
what  they  were.  Our  dragoman  said  that 
they  were  made  out  of  stone  pottery  or 
glass  in  the  shape  of  beetles,  and  that  they 
were  used  by  all  royalty  who  had  their 
cartouches  put  on  the  under  side,  and  that 
they  were  used  as  gifts  and  jewelry  and  to 
put  on  their  mummies.  "Well,  why  did 
they  choose  the  beetle/'  I  asked.     "Be- 

[139I 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

cause  a  beetle  is  always  a  female, "  he  said, 
"and  they  think  it  gets  its  life  from  God, 
so  it  is  a  type  of  eternal  life/'  Father 
bought  a  fine  royal  one,  not  imitation. 

Their  belief  in  the  resurrection  of  the 
body  led  to  the  mummifying  of  their  dead 
and  enclosing  them  in  many  beautiful 
caskets.  I  got  tired  of  seeing  them  in  the 
museums.  They  used  to  put  lots  of 
scarabs  on  them  and  jewelry  and  vases, 
and  as  years  went  on  robbers  used  to  hunt 
them  out  for  their  treasures.  Now  a  lot 
of  people  from  different  countries  are  dig- 
ging up  whole  regions  and  shoveling  sand 
by  the  year  in  hopes  of  finding  more  mum- 
mies and  scarabs.  By  reading  a  book 
called  "The  Queens  of  Egypt,"  I  learned 
that  woman's  rights  were  in  full  force  in 
all  Egyptian  dynasties;  that  they  were 
thought  to  possess  "solar  life,"  and  that 
many  kings  kept  their  thrones  only  be- 
cause they  had  a  royal  princess  for  a 
wife.  They  had  a  queer  custom  of  marry- 
ing their  own  sisters. 

Today  there  are  no  queenly  figures  to 

be  seen.     The  women  all  dress  in  black 

and  wear  veils  over  their  faces,  and  drag 

their  long  black  skirts  in  the  dust.     They 

[140  J 


SB    o 

n3 


EGYPT.  LETTER  ONE 


never  seem  to  have  any  fun.  They  fear 
to  wash  their  children's  faces,  or  drive  the 
flies  off  from  trying  to  do  it,  because  it 
might  bring  an  evil  eye  upon  them.  Like 
China  and  India  it  seems  a  country  made 
by  men  for  men.  I'm  prouder  than  ever 
of  my  own  country,  for  our  mothers  and 
sisters  have  a  freer  time  of  it  than  any 
country  I've  seen  yet. 

In  order  to  understand  myself,  as  well 
as  to  teach  you,  of  the  most  important 
times  and  the  people  that  made  them  im- 
portant, I  am  going  to  make  believe  that 
Egypt  is  a  mystic  pyramid  of  thought- 
steps  and  that  I  am  looking  at  it  through 
a  telescope  of  time  with  the  lens  of  history 
at  its  different  stages.  As  this  thought 
pyramid  dates  6000  B.  C.  and  had  thirty- 
two  dynasties,  it  would  be  beyond  my 
power  to  make  it  readable,  but  as  only 
about  nine  of  the  dynasties  were  notable, 
I  will  try  it. 

6000  B.  C 

A  period  of  mythology  when  kings 
were  gods  and  demigods. 

First  Dynasty,  4400  B.  C. 

Away    almost    out    of    sight    and    of 
[143I 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

any  one's  memory,  King  Menes  sits  on 
high,  for  he  was  the  first  named  king,  and 
wore  the  crowns  of  both  upper  and  lower 
Egypt.  He  built  a  strong  city  on  the 
site  of  Memphis. 

Second  Dynasty,  4133  B.  C. 
The  first  king  named  Besh  who  wrote 
his  name  in  a  circle  and  started  the  idea  of 
cartouches,  is  just  visible.  I  forgot  to  tell 
you  that  a  cartouche  is  a  sort  of  a  mono- 
gram made  of  animals  and  many  marks. 

Third  to  Seventh  Dynasty,  3133  B.  C. 

I  see  pyramids  arising  all  over  Egypt — 
thoughts  of  perfection  of  form,  endur- 
ance, of  substance,  and  labor  for  the  safety 
of  their  future  lives,  for  all  but  the  great 
pyramid  were  tombs  to  protect  the 
mummies  of  their  kings  and  queens. 

Seventh  to  Eighteenth  Dynasty,  1600  B.C. 

During  these  obscure  centuries,  when  a 
cloud  seems  to  have  settled  down,  I  see 
a  strange  procession  —  shepherds  and 
flocks — crowds  and  crowds  filling  Egypt 
without  opposition  or  war.  They  elect 
their  own  kings,  called  the  Hyksos  or 
Shepherd  kings.  The  temples  of  the 
Egyptians  are  closed,  and  the  great  pyra- 
[144] 


EGYPT.  LETTER  ONE 

mid  of  Gizeh  is  rising  on  high — the  most 
wonderful  temple  ever  built  in  this  world. 
It  is  a  witness  in  stone  of  the  understand- 
ing of  one  who  knew  the  past,  present  and 
future.  "As  we  understand  more  of  the 
truth,"  mother  says,  "we  will  learn  great 
lessons  from  its  arrangement,  lines  and 
measurements."  They  ruled  during  the 
fifteenth  and  sixteenth  dynasties,  and 
then  left  quietly.  Some  think  Methuse- 
lah or  Job  lived  then. 

Eighteenth  Dynasty,  1600  B.  C. 

Here  come  into  view  on  a  plane  much 
nearer,  wonderful  temple  buildings.  We 
can  see  them  with  the  naked  eye,  but  the 
people  who  built  them  are  not  there,  tho' 
many  of  their  mummified  bodies  are  the 
rich  treasures  of  the  Cairo  museum.  For 
the  first  time  we  see  a  strong,  beautiful 
woman  on  the  throne  of  Egypt,  Queen 
Hatshepsut.  She  is  domineering  and  rules 
her  relatives  as  well  as  her  people.  I  was 
not  able  to  find  out  whether  Tethmosis  the 
Third  who  ruled  after  her,  was  her  brother, 
husband  or  stepson,  but  he  seems  to  wish 
to  claim  her  glory  for  the  future,  and  has 
obliterated  many  of  her  cartouches  from 
the  temples  and  put  his  own  instead ;  but 

[147] 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

the  men  employed  to  do  this  work  were 
careless  and  we  can  see  the  truth  under- 
neath the  fraudulent  hieroglyphics. 
Doesn't  that  sound  learned? 

Tethmosis  III  was  Egypt's  greatest  war- 
ior.  He  has  captives  and  spoils  galore  in 
his  train.  The  skill  of  the  Egyptian 
artists  and  engineers  at  this  time  is  shown 
now  to  the  inhabitants  of  Rome,  Con- 
stantinople, London  and  New  York,  by 
the  wonderful  obelisks  they  made,  that 
have  been  taken  to  those  cities. 

Next  Amenophis  III  appears  on  the 
scene  with  his  graceful  wife  Thy.  His 
love  and  devotion  to  her  is  displayed  on 
rock-hewn  tablets  for  all  the  world  to  see. 
He  has  the  famous  statues  of  Memnon 
made,  that  head  an  avenue  of  colossal 
figures  to  his  temple,  yet  she  is  beside 
him  even  there.  As  a  warrior  and  as  a 
builder  he  is  great,  but  as  a  devoted  hus- 
band he  is  in  that  age  unique.  Amen- 
ophis III,  fearing  the  control  of  the  priests 
of  Ammon,  comes  to  view  with  a  wonderful 
sun  disk  in  his  hand,  and  commands  the 
people  of  Egypt  to  worship  only  one  god. 
He  is  called  the  heretic  king,  and  after  his 
reign  they  go  back  to  their  former  gods. 
[148] 


\tf> 


EGYPT,  LETTER  ONE 

I  see  many  Israelites  laboring  in  Egypt 
at  this  time. 

Nineteenth  Dynasty,  1400  B.  C. 

I  see  a  great  king,  Seti,  building  a  magni- 
ficent temple  at  Abydos — a  stone  book  of 
history  where  he  is  teaching  his  young  son 
Rameses  to  do  homage  to  his  seventy-six 
ancestors  whose  names  are  cut  in  the  rock 
tablet.  He  is  a  man  of  artistic  taste  and 
has  the  best  artists  employed  to  decorate 
his  temple  with  lasting  beauty.  I  see  his 
young  son,  Rameses  II,  filled  with  thoughts 
of  daring  achievements  such  as  have  never 
been  thought  of  before.  He  is  the  Phar- 
aoh of  the  Bible  who  opposes  the  Egyp- 
tians; his  vast  treasure  houses  can  be  seen 
without  the  telescope  now.  His  wonder- 
ful rock  temples  are  at  Abu  Simbel.  His 
colossal  statues  still  fill  Egypt.  His  name 
is  on  more  than  half  the  temples,  but  he  is 
beginning  to  glorify  himself,  to  perpetuate 
his  own  name,  to  declare  his  own  glory; 
but  he  also  honors  his  beloved  wife,  Nefi- 
tari,  and  builds  a  rock  temple  for  her  with 
four  large  statues  of  himself  and  two 
small  ones  of  her  in  front  of  it.  After  his 
glorious  reign  of  sixty-seven  years,  he  is 
called,  like  Tethmosis  III,  "The  Great/ ' 

[151I 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

Minepath,  the  Pharaoh  who  drove  the 
Israelites  out  of  Egypt,  according  to 
history,  as  well  as  the  Bible,  runs  his  brief 
course  around  the  pyramid  of  Egypt,  and 
his  hosts  sink  in  the  Red  Sea. 

Twentieth  Dynasty,  1200  B.  C. 

I  see  what  is  called  the  new  empire 
dawning  on  Egypt.  Twelve  Rameses, 
one  after  another,  on  the  throne,  the  only 
great  one  appears  to  be  Rameses  III,  who 
builds  temples  showing  his  wonderful  ex- 
ploits at  fighting,  shooting  and  training 
his  horses  and  soldiers,  on  their  walls. 

Twenty-sixth  Dynasty,  1090-525  B.  C. 

Of  all  the  kings  that  succeeded  the 
Ramacides,  the  figure  of  King  Amasis 
appears  most  clearly,  not  on  account  of 
his  virtues,  but  of  his  deception.  Cam- 
byses,  the  king  of  Persia,  sends  for  a  wife 
from  the  family  of  the  king  of  Egypt. 
Amasis  sends  a  young  princess,  Netites, 
whose  right  he  has  taken  away,  as  his  own 
daughter,  to  the  suppliant.  Netites  took 
vengeance  on  her  enemy  and  revealed  to 
Cambyses  the  fraud.  Whereupon  a  lively 
war  followed  and  proud  Egypt  was  hum- 
bled to  the  dust,  her  rule  destroyed,  and 


EGYPT.  LETTER  ONE 


her  glory  as  an  Egyptian  nation  forever 
diminished. 

That  will  do  for  this  time.     Yours, 

BEECH. 

Postscript:  This  letter  was  worse  than 
a  composition.  I  had  to  read  so  much 
that  it  sounds  awfully  ' 'grown  up."  If 
you  ever  come  here  it  will  save  you  a  lot 
of  study  if  you  bring  the  ' 'essay* '  along. 


[i55] 


Chapter  XII. 
EGYPT,  LETTER  TWO. 

FEBRUARY  I3TH 

My  dear  Bradford: 

N  ow  don't  think  that  everything  that  I 
have  written  you  about  Egypt  is  gospel 
truth.  The  Egyptologists  differ  a  cen- 
tury or  two  in  their  conclusions  and  so  I 

[156] 


EGYPT,  LETTER  TWO 

may  be  a  little  off  in  some  things.  I  am 
only  writing  you  my  thought  about  it, 
gained  from  what  I  have  read  and  what 
mother  has  told  me  about  their  different 
decisions. 

Well,  any  way  the  glory  of  Egypt  as 
a  nation  passed  in  5251  and  the  sands  of 
the  desert  filled  their  tombs  and  buried 
their  many  temples. 

Persian  Rule. 

The  Persians  conquered  the  whole 
country  by  a  large  army  led  by  Cambyses, 
(read  the  prophecy  of  Ezekiel,  30:  3-18) 
and  the  destruction  he  wrought  is  seen 
especially  in  the  temple  of  Rameses  III  at 
Medinet  Habu.  He  tore  from  the  tomb 
mummies  of  the  kings,  he  stabbed  the 
sacred  bull  at  Memphis  and  made  fun  of 
all  their  sacred  objects.  So  Herodotus, 
the  father  of  history  says,  and  he  adds 
that,  afterward,  he  thought  it  wiser  to  join 
with  their  ideas  and  took  a  throne  name 
and  doubtless  had  a  cartouche  and  re- 
stored some  of  the  temples.  Then  Dar- 
ius, Xerxes,  Artaxerxes,  came  in  order  and 
called  themselves  kings  of  Egypt  and 
joined  in  with  the  inhabitants  in  their 
superstitious  worship.    They  had  often  to 

[159] 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

fight  them,  however,  to  keep  them  down. 
In  the  last  revolt  against  Persian  power 
the  Egyptians  called  upon  the  Greeks  to 
help  them;  they  cheerfully  agreed  and 
were  thoroughly  beaten.  For  many  years 
Egyptian  kings  and  Persian  kings  played 
a  lively  game  of  human  chess,  and  some 
times  one  side,  and  some  times  the  other 
would  win  and  rule. 

Alexander  the  Great,  from  Macedonia, 
jumps  into  the  game  in  quite  an  unex- 
pected manner  and  sweeps  off  the  board. 
He  built  up  the  great  city  of  Alexandria 
and  founded  its  most  famous  library,  but 
got  a  dose  of  poison  for  his  pains. 
Greek  Rule. 

The  wonderful  reigns  of  the  Ptolemy  and 
Cleopatras,  as  their  queens  were  called, 
lasted  300  years.  There  were  sixteen  of 
them,  and  they  pretended  that  they  were 
descended  from  the  Egyptian  gods,  and 
the  people  believed  them.  They  built 
temples  and  had  their  cartouches  like  the 
kings  of  old.  When  you  get  old  enough 
to  read  Shakespeare  and  understand  it 
you  will  see  in  his  play  "Antony  and  Cleo- 
patra' '  how  they  lost  control,  and  how 
Rome  got  control  of  Egypt. 
[160] 


EGYPT,  LETTER  TWO 

Roman  Rule. 

There  were  thirty-seven  Roman  rulers 
and  they  reigned  nearly  400  years.  Au- 
gustus Caesar  gained  full  control  of  Egypt 
B.  C.  30.  He  was  ruler  there  when  Jesus 
was  born  in  Bethlehem.  So  you  see  why 
the  Bible  tells  so  much  about  Egypt.  We 
were  shown  the  places  where  Mary  and 
Joseph  with  their  little  babe  rested  and 
the  wells  they  drank  from,  during  the 
flight  into  Egypt. 

During  the  reign  of  Nero,  Christianity 
was  first  preached  in  Egypt  by  St.  Mark. 
No  wonder  it  spread  rapidly  for  the  early 
Christians  healed  diseases,  and  taught  the 
people  of  one  universal  God  who  loved 
them  and  wanted  them  to  love  one  an- 
another.  It  was  through  Egypt  that 
Christianity  reached  Rome. 

Through  all  the  discussions  of  the  Holy 
Fathers,  and  the  laws  against  Christianity 
made  by  the  Romans,  one  little  flock  has 
stood  firm  to  the  word  of  God  as  preached 
by  St.  Mark,  all  this  time.  They  are 
called  Copts,  and  they  have  always  been 
persecuted.  They  made  churches  out  of  the 
old  temples,  and  in  one  I  saw  a  painting  of 
our  Lord  on  the  wall  amid  all  the  heathen 
[163] 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

gods  and  their  symbols.  There  are  about 
68,000  Copts  in  Egypt  today,  and  they 
are  the  brightest  of  all  Egyptians.  They 
have  schools  in  the  cities  and  villages  for 
both  boys  and  girls,  and  we  saw  an  old 
man  sitting  cross-legged  in  the  sun  teach- 
ing the  little  dirty-faced  children  squat- 
ing  around  him  to  read  from  our  Bible. 

When  Constantine  took  up  Christianity 
to  help  his  political  career,  the  great  busi- 
ness of  life  seemed  to  be  deciding  what 
Christianity  should  preach  as  truth,  and 
what  the  people  should  be  taught  to  be- 
lieve. They  must  have  made  a  mistake, 
for  it  hasn't  carried  out  very  well  the 
teaching  Jesus  gave.  When  you  study 
Roman  history  you  will  see  that  Constan- 
tine went  to  Constantinople,  and  so  can- 
not be  surprised  to  hear  that  in  some  way 
or  other,  bishops  got  control  of  Egypt, 
and  during  the  period  called  the  Byzan- 
tine, eight  bishops  ruled  and  quarreled 
until  the  Arabs,  who  believe  in  Moham- 
met,  put  them  out. 

Now  I  must  tell  you  a  little  about  this 

religion  that  has  more  followers  than  any 

other  in  the  world  today.     (Daddy  says 

that  isn't  so,  but  I  read  it  somewhere.) 

[164] 


Egypt 

Ghizeh.     Mysterious  But  Very  Plain 

Statues  or  Memnon.    This  is  the  Sight  of  Old  Thebes 


EGYPT,  LETTER  TWO 

Mohammet  was  born  at  Mecca,  569  B.  C. 
and  he  was  forty  years  old  when  he  felt 
that  he  was  called  by  God  to  reform  the 
religion  of  the  Arabs.  He  believed  in  the 
first  five  chapters  of  the  Bible  that  Moses 
wrote,  the  psalms  and  the  gospels,  but 
considered  himself  a  greater  prophet  than 
Jesus.  He  wrote  a  book  called  the  Koran 
and  all  good  Mohammedans  study  it  and 
obey  its  rules.  Their  churches  are  called 
mosques,  and  the  towers,  minarets.  Five 
times  a  day  a  man  walks  around  the  bal- 
cony calling  the  faithful  to  prayer.  I  tell 
you  it  gives  one  quite  a  start  to  see  men 
who  are  not  ashamed  of  their  religion, 
kneeling  down  anywhere,  praying  to  God. 
They  never  drink  liquor  and  they  fast 
often,  but  the  weak  place  in  that  religion 
is  the  way  it  thinks  of  women;  they  are 
shut  up  in  harems  and  can  only  go  on  the 
street  if  their  faces  are  veiled,  and  they 
have  to  share  a  husband  with  three  others. 
That  religion  seems  made  for  men  alone. 
The  Arabs  ruled  Egypt  for  nearly  a 
thousand  years,  when  the  last  Caliph  be- 
queathed his  right  and  titles  to  the  Sultan 
of  Turkey.  Turkish  rule  brought  the  red 
fez  to  Egypt  which  is  so  becoming  to  men ; 
[167] 


FAR  COUNTRIES  AS  SEEN  BY  A  BOY 

They  wear  it  at  the  opera,  at  dinner,  in 
fact  all  the  time. 

Now  we  are  coming  down  to  things  of 
which  we  have  all  seen  pictures.  Napo- 
leon pounced  upon  Egypt  in  1798  hoping 
to  destroy  British  trade  in  the  Mediter- 
ranean. He  fought  a  battle  by  the  pyra- 
mids, but  the  British  Lion  was  on  his  track 
and  just  as  it  happened  in  China  and 
India,  England  found  at  last  that  she  had 
to  take  control  of  Egypt  for  its  own  good. 
They  had  to  teach  the  people  how  to  take 
care  of  their  money,  and  how  to  be  law- 
abiding.  They  built  the  great  dam  at 
Assouan,  and  have  established  banks  and 
schools.  They  may  bring  to  Egypt  a 
better  understanding  of  God,  and  the  poor 
women  may  find  that  they  have  as  many 
rights  as  the  men,  a  place  on  earth  and  in 
heaven  too. 

And  now  good-bye,  for  this  is  my  last 
letter,  and  I  hope  I  won't  have  to  write 
another  for  a  year. 


Your  loving  cousin, 


BEECH. 


[168] 


Egypt 
Our  Steamer  Prince  Abeus — On  to  Earis.     Good-Bye 


»        O    '«         i 

•  ■     •  t  »1 


Here  End  the  Letters  from  Beech  to  His 

Chum,  Written  While  Touring  the  Orient, 

and   Illustrated    from   Photographs    Taken 

En  Route.     Printed  for  the  Enjoyment  of 

Other  Boys,  and  Girls,  Too,  by  Paul  Elder 

and  Company,  and  Conducted  Through  Their 

Tomoye  Press  by  Herman  A.  Funke,  In  the 

City  of  San  Francisco  During  the 

Month  of  October,  Nineteen  Sixteen 


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